Hello, I just acquired a 2002 gem cart will not run. History on the cart, last time used they went to move it barely moved forward but with a push start it started to move drove up the road and back but parked it because of a burning smell and did not run since. (motor?)
Let me first put this out there who ever has been working on the cart prior to me, looks like they have bypassed the DC-DC convert the owner of the cart has been running it like this for about a year or so. Someone was savvy enough to make it work. I did find a power wire hooked up to one of the batteries to power up the fuse panel to run the accessories.
Reading through the forums theirs a lot it could be. So, I bought a service manual to get myself familiar with the components, but the diagnoses lead me to a bad controller. I need to be sure before I replace it.
So, I have some questions for the cart experts’ How do I confirm a bad controller? I have 72v on the two big gauge wires and at the motor.
So, one more thing, When I turn the power switch on the BDI would flash a 3254 followed by 32 on the hourglass icon then pause and a 05. But the BDI has now stop working after i have been poking around. Humm I do have a working Delta Q charger and have keep all 6 batteries charged up.
Thank you for any help… MB
Mainly because there seems a lot going on. Solve one issue at a time.
First, it is important to identify if this car has had the DC Converter Wiring update. Do you have an open faced circuit board down by the passenger side footwell?
Note: when I turn the key on I there is that load clunk from the large solenoid. Ya I know not having a working BDI makes harder because of no codes displayed, but when it did work there was a code 05 just before the BDI stop working. Thanks MB
The BDI is wired and powered directly off the controller. It’s cable is that other little plug on top. Being mounted on top makes it a target for contaminants that are not the best for electrical connectors.
Remove that little connector (T1 controllers are 8 pin, and T2 are 12 pin) and clean out any crap you find in there. Make sure all the pins are straight and not corroded. Make sure all the little wires are still connected.
Note: when I turn the key on I there is that load clunk from the large solenoid
Interesting. Looking at your pic, I can see that the last guy decided to replace the Large solenoid. He was probably confused that it did not close when the key was turned on. There are a few conditions that will keep it from closing.
Judging by your other comments that mentioned there was a 12v tap off one of the batteries for accessories, I suspect there may be some other creative wiring going on with this car.
Test this: when you KeyON, and hear the relay close, Pull up on the hand brake and the relay should open again. Lowering handbrake again may cause it to close again.
Confirm(Y/N)?
Also- post some more pics of the tomfoolery going on under the dash.
Yes, creative wiring going on with this car to say the least. So, when I turn the key on i hear the load clunk from the large solenoid, pull the Ebrake up then back down here the load clunk from the large solenoid, Is this what you call the relay? There are no other relays that I can see except for the interlock relay (that is not wired to anything)
I removed the T1 and T8 connectors used electrical spray cleaner all pins look good also remove connector at the BDI found pins not in great shape but pushed the pins back in. Note that connector could use replacement for sure tho. My question is at the controller what should have power and when? On one pic on the controller there is a r/g wire not hooked up what this for?
Do you have access to a programming rig that can read what is going on inside the controller?
Otherwise, there is no simple/easy way to test the controller. It relies on several inputs and then goes through a series of safety checks when powered up. Some of them can be bypassed, some not.
Right now, I am trying to determine what the last guy did to your car. From there I might be able to blindly sniff out what it needs.
Check this:
Remove the Main Harness plug located on top of your controller.
MainSwON, KeyOn. HandBrake Down(off)
Yup I understand the controller is a module with many functions that need to meet all the requirements (mainly safety like can’t drive away when the charger is plug in and so on) to send power to the motor. But the cart ran for a year after Mr. fix it rewired and by passed the DC-DC converter.
Now I’m just spit Balling here. Can I check for a change in voltage at the two small wires on the controller when pressing on the go peddle and expect a change in volts? Thank you for your time, Mb
You will see a voltage on the Field wires as soon as you key on.
You should not see a voltage on the Armature wires unless you are pressing pedal to go. This voltage will vary according to pedal press.
With these two things happening, the motor should be going.
If not, See Note A below
When you let up on pedal, the V on the armature should drop to near zero.
If not, See Note A below
Note A
Something is wrong with your motor. Most likely brushes.
Scrolling back to your original post you noted this info nugget:
last time used they went to move it barely moved forward but with a push start it started to move
This too, points to a motor issue. But yes, if you choose to ignore the motor issue, it has a chance to damage the controller.
It is not hard to bypass the DC converter to get the car to run. The car actually does not need 12v. The DC converter is really only there to power the accessories.
You seem to put a lot of faith in Mr Fixit and his mods.
I apologize. I was under the impression you were trying to straighten out his mess and make this car run as it should.
Well, I will undo the dc-dc converter bypass done by Mr. fix it and put it back the way it should be. I may need your help with a wiring diagram when the time comes. But for now, I need to get her running. I really appreciate your help. I’ll keep you posted with my progress. Thank you, Mb,
