After reassembling my 2002 4 seater, and having to vertically insert a standard deep cycle wet cell and spill acid onto my feet just to hit error code 15 and have to charge them all again with standard charger, the lithium battery upgrade has jumped up in priority.
Can someone who knows more then me advise why I couldn’t and what the issue would be if I replaced my standard wet batteries with one of these, adding additional in parallel for range increases?
Summary
20S 10P Li-ion Battery pack
72V 25AH 3000W
Battery 18650 with 5A charger 50A BMS
Recommend For Motor: 72V 1000W—3000W(MAX)
Max continuous discharge 50amp
Max peak discharge 150amp
From what I have read it seems that it’s between 2-5ah a mile, guessing around 3-4 with the reduced weight without the deep cycles
Seems like a poor choice.
Need a minimum of 5 pcs to handle the current. Keeping track of 100 cells is no easy task.
Getting them to load share may be a fools errand.
i have seen some Chevy Volt packs built as 6s3p ~24v 45ah; would I be able to wire three of these pre wired packs in a series and just balance at the pack level with a bms or regardless of matching each cell should be individually attached to the bms?
Not looking for 30 miles, 10-15 max, just want to get more power, less weight, and not spill acid on myself again while spending under $700 if possible.
I clicked on the link and found a 50AH version for ~$1,000. It might work out but let me share my story:
I purchased a full Volt pack for $1,000. Had it delivered to my house for $249. That’s a little more than what this pack is listed at. However this is what I ended up with:
100AH pack in my 4-seater. I’ve gone 26 miles in hilly terrain with lots of battery to spare.
Another 100AH pack sitting on the shelf waiting for me to install it in my other GEM car. I haven’t decided whether to use the full 100Ah on that car since I don’t need the range. I may use part of the second pack in my Clubcar cart.
To put it in perspective; I spent $249 more than the 50ah pack on your link(assuming free shipping) but I have enough batteries to do 4 cars at that level or 2 cars at 100AH. I am slightly over $300 for a 50ah pack that is 96V and gives me tons of extra power. (you can easily disconnect 4 cells to keep it at 20S if you prefer).
I haven’t done the math to calculate it, but I can tell you experientially that amp hour ratings of lead acid batteries are not the same as lithium ion. I had 105AH FLA in my car and couldn’t get over 10 miles on a good day.
My recommendation would be to find someone else interested in splitting a pack (perhaps even 3 people) and do the Volt solution. Its a little bit of work, but nothing difficult at all. @Inwo has the BMS and all the other items you might need. Regardless of which batteries you choose, you should consider using a BMS. You could even buy the Volt pack, take what you need and sell the rest on ebay and get most if not all of your money back. You just have to find a good deal on a Volt pack and they are out there.
The thing is I don’t want nor need that type of range. Just 10-15 miles as I drive around my small neighborhood and once a year in a 2-3 mile golf cart parade. It’s personal preference to lose the weight and dealing with the deep cycle batteries. I would like more speed, by adding more power, but that’s a second thought.
When I got the gem, it supposedly had newer batteries so not looking to drop $1k for preference and laziness.
I’ll just keep an eye out on eBay for some Volt packs and pick them up if low enough.
Thanks, I was using a 3.7v per cell constant and counting the number of cells in the prebuilt 24/36/48/72v packs.
Side question though, how can you provide more power to the motor if th controller has a max cutoff limit, do you just bypass the controller for 12-24v or however much you are planning to go over?
Inwo will sell you a voltage spoof that connects to the voltage sense line of the controller and offsets it the necessary amount. The controller sees the lower voltage but passes the higher voltage to the motor. Works perfectly.
On the subject of the of the “72V” packs you see Alan selling to folks here; they are a scam. Avoid that guy like the plague. Dave is too gracious to say it but that guy is knowingly deceiving people into buying his garbage that will not work and then he sells them extra cells once they are stuck. Total shyster!
The cutoff is 85-86 volts.
3.7v max of ~4.1 so 20-22s is perfect.
24s is hotrodding and needs spoof.
A great Volt or Spark pack IMO are Gen2 three x 16s modules.
Each one can be reconfigured from 110ah 7s or 8s. Making a 21s stock voltage or 24s hot rod.
Grant can show fitment pictures.
Actually, a simple small pack would be a single 16s and a single 6s Volt module.
Not technically correct mixing a gen1 and gen2 but far superior to any Chinese build and less than $1k.
Here is a Gen2 16s. If he had 3, I’d buy them myself.
Can’t find a 2015 6s right now to go with it. Should be able to find one for $300.
2012-2013 not the best choice. Hold out for a 15 or 16.
Super easy drop in combo. I have harness and monitor that works.
I may just talk myself into it, but I double the price for my efforts.
