No- That is perfect. The numbers are not important.
The fact that it lights up is important.
It tells me there is B+ power is going all the way up to the front of the car and to the controller.
It tells me the controller is booting up properly and preparing to go.
It tells me the display is working and connecting to the controller.
Far different from original assesment that there is no display at all.
Now I can jump down a few steps to something else.
With your previous pics and answers I want to point you to this thing in one of your own pics.
It has 4 wires going to it.
Green, Black, White, and Gray.
Remove the White and Gray wires and connect them together. (If you have a blade style automotive fuse available, it makes for a convenient connector to to join the two female connectors together for this test. Use maybe a 5-10a fuse.)
Does the display light up and stay active?
If Yes, Does it show -04?
If Yes, drop your parking brake lever. It should go to 0 and Does the car drive?
If No to any of these, we will take it from there.
Thank you for the good news. I have some fuses. Hopefully I can tell which wires they are. They are quite dirty. And, before it quit on me it seems I did see that -04 on the dash, but the speedometer was working.
OK, I did the fuse thing and the dash screen came on with the -04 and then went to zero.
Itās closed in by some other things annd cars, but I did turn it on and it would move in Forward and Reverse. I only had a couple of feet to move in, but it did move.
So far so good, huh? What does that tell us?
I have to pick up and deliver some grandchildren, but Iāll be back
Ok, Back.
Was traveling all day. Now settled down.
Ok. good test.
That thing I pointed you to is your Key relay.
The two wires I had you pull off and jump are the contacts of the relay. Doing this tells me that everything downstream is ok and fine.
Your previous note abot your accessory circuit working when you KeyON tells me the Key Loop is fine because the Acc relay shares the 12v loop with this relay.
I would inspect the other two wires. Possibly the connections are dirty?
You should have 12v on the green wire (Ref Chassis ground) when you KeyON and the black wire is 12vGnd.
You could also inspect and follow that black wire to make sure itās ground to the frame is clean and tight. There are actually a couple ground wires at that point.
This might even explain your other issue with only half of your lights working.
If all grounds look good, AND you actually find 12 on the Green and Black wires then this means your relay has given up.
If you need oneā¦ You could order one from the proper channels, or you could just substitute one of the common automotive cube relays.
Very good! Iām in the airport waiting for a plane to Utah. You give good instructions. I appreciate that. I did a couple of projects at work with a guy that is an electrical engineering, of the genius quality. While I am mechanically inclined and reasonably intelligent, I had a lot of difficulty following his instructions. He spoke EE, and I speak popular mechanics. Anyway, thanks and Iāll do this when I get back. Btw, where is that relay? I see one on top near that wiring bock, but it looks like a blinker relay.
The big silver box with fins is an old Schott charger. Most likely abandoned. It can be pulled out/removed but it has a couple small wires going to the bottom that need to be reconfigured for your car to function without the old charger in place. These would be the interlock wires.
Donāt cut the wires to that charger plug, instead- follow where they go and disconnect there instead. Then remove the lower dash panel and drill out those rivets. That was a stupid place for that.
Remember, he canāt easily remove his lower dash cover because the battery connector for his external charger is wired to a riveted housing on the lower dash. So definitely something for another time and better just leave that old charger in place for now.
That connector is what I was trying to get him to remove. Once you cut wires, it is difficult to go back if you wanted to still use it at least it may not be elegant.
I figured it was installed somehow. Since the socket was installed from the front I figure the wires must be easy to get to while the lower dash was mounted.
After thinking about it. I totally get why it is in that location. Itās real hard to miss and drive away withit plugged in. Essentially a human interfaced interlock.
There are only two wires going to the battery pack. I can cut them and put a connector on them to plug them back together. That will allow me to remove the bottom cover. Eventually do want to replace the charger thatās built in. I have a Lester Summit II that should fit. I want to get everything working first. Thanks, guys.
Iām Baaaack! Back from Utah and in warm weather again. I still have to check the voltage on that green wire you mentioned. Iāll do that today during the eclipse. Thanks!
I did put an Anderson Connector in those charger port wires so I can remove the dash when I need to. It works well. I havenāt had a chance to work on it since w went to Utah. I have an old CC 6-seater that died and have been working on it. I got it going and now I can get back to the GEM for a workout. Thank guys for the help.
