Most any controller problem should give an error code.
Ohm out your motor
the right direction if I ohm out f1-f2 I get 0.6 if I ohm out a1-a2 I get 2.3 not sure if this was right way to measure
Sorry about cut post. Not sure if I did this right but the if I ohm out f1-f2 I get 0.6 if I ohm out a1-a2 I get 2.3 not sure if this was right way to measure
Right so far. Check both to ground - should be no read.
So 00.0 at field posts 0.L at armature posts. I have no codes when I press gas pedal just not enough juice. I get 72 volts at the +B post of controller but could I have a bad battery somehow? Shouldn’t have good voltage I wouldn’t think though.
Do you lose display when losing power?
If no:
Check for >72v at main terminals of controller B+ and B-, while pressing acc.
See where you are losing voltage.
Losing voltage only at main terminals will not set a code. Voltage is sensed at P1 or P2.
It could be a bad power connection anywhere between batteries, thru fuse/switch, or even inside controller.
Any of these connections or bad battery can let voltage drop under load.
So I got the cart moving today. I show drop in voltage when applying throttle at the +b and -b post. Voltage returns to normal when released. Vehicle shudders pretty hard from dead stop. Once rolling it did get up to speed 23 mph or so. But every time I stop same thing. I only drive it around the block and upon return maybe 3 mins motor smelled really hot and all cables to motor where very hot. Any idea motor? Controller ? I am happy that my original problems appear corrected. But if I can’t get it to move it isn’t gonna help much. Thanks for all the help you guys have provided.
If all cables are hot, drawing too much current. Not good.
I suspect heat is greater in one or two spots.
After a run find the hot spot. That’s the problem.
So would this be more motor related than controller. It is a 16 year old gem so I know it could be getting tired
jack up the cart and spin each wheel for dragging. Brake cables freeze up when they get old
Rodney
Yes, unlikely failure mode for controller. Is motor hot?
I told you that you did nothing to cause this! :D:clap2:
Yes motor was hot to touch. I assume break drag is less likely because of the ability to maintain its top speed and front brakes are disc conversion. And as i say that since I got the unit occassiolly I would have burned wire odor. Tonight was far worse.
You will soon be a qualified Gem mechanic. What you need is GE sentry sw to monitor current. Or a cheap power meter from Ebay.
Did you ever check for ground fault?
As OH suggested. I don’t recall.
Back brakes
0
Ok I know it’s been awhile. I got busy with work and this hurricane Matthew. So I jacked up the front motor seemed to respond as designed. So I jacked up rear. Bingo one wheel almost frozen. Pulled em down one shoe completely gone and and fused into drum. Wheel cylinders all looked like crap. Problem solved. I replaced both hub assemblies with functioning used pieces. And here comes the rub. Slapped the wheels on time for a quick spin. Off we go car moves yahoo, drive about 6 blocks and notice the off the line is slower than prior to all this. Then we start the shutter and then the smell of burning motor and a 41 code. Where should I go . Is this probable controller or motor. I pulled the motor off thinking maybe brushes but don’t want to throw away money just get it right
Look for stuck brushes and dirty commutator. Check armature for shorts and grounds.
Be careful you can lunch your controller. I get $386 for controller rebuilds.
Rodney