Got a little busy.
Grant could have used this…
Update… So I got the new relay. replaced it and nothing. I can apply +12V to the trigger Green wire terminal and click the contactor is brought in. So I still am not getting signal through the green wire. I tried to by pass the key circuit by going red/grn to Green trigger wire and nothing. But the bigger concern is when the contactor comes on line and I put the cart in gear and give it some go pedal I get motor whine and it feels like it wants to go but NO GO it is. So my question is now is this a controller issue. The relay was deff bad b/c even when I jumped it would no longer click and connect the circuit. I am frustrated With myself at this point. We have settled with the fact the cart will not take our next trip with us camping but I have only found on shop that comes up in the area LtGearShop in Pinellas they say they are mobile but I can get it moved. I understand at this point it may be beyond me but would like to get an idea on where I am headed. Thanks to all who have offered help.
Can you find where you lose the 12v?
It comes from the converter 9&10 , thru key switch, thru charger, to trigger.
So I have +12v from pin 9,10 thru key switch and back down to red/grn at charger but green switching wire out of charger from the same 8 pin connector that ignition wire comes in ( only 4 wires in this connector red/grn, brn/ylw, brn/grn and green to relay is -76v which doesn’t make sense to me as I need 12v trigger. So no signal that is activating relay.
Check for 12v on the green from charger. Common from meter to 12v grd.
While checking, plug in charger, and unplug a few times.(ac power) It seems interlock relay is stuck. Bang on it a little. Does it click?
If no 12v, cut wires or disconnect 8p plug, then jumper from Gn to RG.
Then all is normal except no charger interlock.
Are greens mixed up?
Notice green is B- And +12 from switch and charger.
No luck I get -72v at the green interlock wire and if I jump red/grn and grn I get to relay and no contactor. I think I will have to bite the bullet and see what someone says that works on these cars regularly.
Just saw your last post. I hadn’t touched any wiring prior to this radio install. I will look into this because the tap that ties into -B from the pin 6 of the sure power timer arcs anytime I plug it into the tap. And that leads me to believe there is voltage involved. But not sure why that would rear its ugly head now.
After unplugging 8p plug.
Jumper the 12v from the key R/Gn to the relay Gn, it has to pull the relay in.
As I suggested earlier, I think, 
the wiring may have been wrong previous.
Just because it worked, doesn’t mean it was correct.
You mistake should not have caused damage if the two systems were properly isolated. 12v and 72v.
That makes perfect sense.
If greens were tied together from isolated systems. Wrong! Car would have still worked.
Mistake was made during upgrade…
When you added a second point of intermingling it caused damage.
I will try it tomorrow and get back to you thanks for the patience.
So I looked at the green wires specifically. All seems to be as specified with the surepower wiring instructions for the schott charger. So to recap no contactor or relay even while jumping interlock with key circuit at charger. 72 volts where it should be. 12v at school/dc converter. Can pull in contactor when I jump Grey wire and white wire at relay. But even with contactor energized motor tries to pull but won’t build enough power to turn. So unless there are any other suggestions I will have to bite the bullet and send her to the hospital. With contactor energized should have go. So now I am thinking controller is damaged and not providing good power to motor to get her going.
What do you mean by this? “72 volts where it should be. 12v at school/dc”
Stick with one problem at a time.
You stated that connecting +12v to relay it pulls it in.
Yet you say jumping the 12v from key, to the wire going to relay, does not pull relay in.
What am I missing?
Normally relay contacts are marked com/no/nc
Seems from the diagram this follows true.
1 and 2 being the coil.
Ok sorry for confusion. I have +72 v at standoff both sides on 400 fuse and at contactor. I have +12v constant from dc/school converter to key, from key to charger, but no 12 from there through the green wire back to relay. I have +72v at pin 1 of controller. When I jump relay it clicks and gives +72v to pin 2 at controller and brings in contactor. So problem with key circuit seems to be from charger to relay. Voltage coming out of interlock wire of schott charger to relay is 72 v. The other problem is when contactor comes online all systems seem ok. However when I give it gas pedal it whines but does not have the Umph to move the cart. That seems like controller issue but I am new to ev’s so I may be all wrong.
You are probably correct in having controller issue.
In any case, the problem of wire from charger to relay coil needs to be fixed.
As we don’t know the issue, we can’t know if it affects other systems.
The same wire that goes from charger to relay triggers the timer, turning on switched 12 volts.
I believe you said earlier, that jumping plug at charger, did not send 12v to relay coil. Pulling it in. We need to find out why.
Try disconnecting grn from timer when jumping charger interlock. May be shorted.
Ok that makes sense. I will give that a shot and let you know. Thanks for the suggestion.
Hang in there. No reason we can’t get that part fixed.
Even rewiring it is only one wire.
You have +12 at charger interlock. Run a wire from there (disconnected plug) to the relay coil (#2). Only to #2 disconnect other wires.
Then relay will pull in with key, and we can go from there.
Ok here is the findings. I can now jump interlock and contactor pulls in. Contactor times out as supposed to. Press accelerator and contactor pulls in delivering power again. This scenario works with both the timer plugged and unplugged. So bad interlock it is. Simple fix bypass the interlock which works because I use the quick charger and it wires into the dash console not rear seat so hard to forget. But I still have a problem with controller. I still do not get enough power to move cart. Motor whines but not enough ummpf to move unit. Safe to say rebuild is in its future?