This is what I got the rotor looks pretty fried by the commutator.
Is this motor fried?
And since we are there is it possible to upgrade to newer 5hp motor not looking for race car just a more efficient power and maybe a lil faster than 23 mph.
Pretty normal looking for car with some miles. Polish the commutator with 220 sand paper, check for grounds and give it a go.
To do it right Have the commutator turned and rebed the brushes. Make sure there is no sticky brushes. While you have it apart replace the bearing and install a new rubber bumper
Ok will do. What should a rebuild run for this motor worst case so I can say replacement vs rebuild. And also could the controller still be causing these problems. We have taken brake drag out of the mix now.
Is this a 3.5 hp motor or a 5? What diameter tires do you have? 2 seat or 4.?
185/65r14 on 2000 e825 4 seater. 3.5 hp
Did you just put these tires on? They are WAY to big for a 3.5HP motor You have an 8.9 gearbox. The only motor that will handle that is a 7.5HP performance motor. You could have a controller problem. A heavy duty 5 would handle it but it wont fit your cart. In any case you need to reduce tire diameter for 2 reasons. Power and braking. The brakes on a 2002 are iffy on a 25 mile per hour cart with stock tires, With 24 inch tire diameter their dangerously inadequate. I suggest 21 or at best 22 inch maximum Diameter.
Rodney
Tires where on it when I got it. It does have disc upgrade on the front. Would a stock 5hp motor from a newer cart help out or no way. And i assume no real way to know motor or controller without pulling than and having them tested. Man good deals never end up that way in the long term. I like the wheels and tiresso would like to find a way to make it work without costing me a new car payment.
You can get a nice set of wheels and tires for 600 bucks. I sell Reworked Ride for Fun motors for $475 including shipping. However I just sold the last 2 last week. You should also reprogram your controller. Do you have a T1 or T2 controller?
It’s a T1. That’s Murphy’s law. By the time I get everything right I’ll be in it for more than buying a much newer unit. Such is life.
After reading these post I am concerned about my plans to add a 72w off road light for dark nights and a reverse lamp for seeing a little better when backing up. I have done this kind of stuff for boats and cars but I am a newby on the electric car scene.
I really need help on where to seek the 12v power source and ground. I have planned to use separate illuminated switches for each unless better options are available?
My wife and our friends really enjoy the roads here in Ocean Springs, MS
My Gem is a 2010 E4
Thanks for any help.
Halaru
Halaru
Start a new thread
So with this overheating motor. I am still lost. It didn’t have this problem before all of this. Now I do. The motor smells toasted, I don’t mind taking it and having it gone through but it is a 3.5 so my question is this and I’m sure no one can be sure without diagnosing it personally but in your fine sir’s experience does this sound like all motor or still probable controller. The fact I shorted relay means for sure I could have damaged the controller. So my delima is this do I look at new motor and controller repair/upgrade through business like r4f. If not them who? Second half. If I upgrade to 7.5 will the 8.9 gearing be crazy if I keep these 14" (23.5" overall tire)
If your on flat ground the RFF motor will pull it. But if you were running with out problems prior you could have motor or controller problems.
Ohm out the motor. You could have shorted windings. Field should be in the 1.5 range Armature .5 or less use the lowest scale you have on your VOM
If performing correctly. Ohm reading between F1 and F2 = 1.5
And A1 and A2 = 0.5 so looks like that is where it should be. So how do I test for bac controller.
Send it in for evaluation. if there’s nothing wrong with it the testing is under $75 plus freight. If it’s bad I charge $386 including all shipping.for remanufacture and update.
So those readings mean motor should be trouble free. Can anything be done to update controller to handle this setup for the short term till I replace motor and/ tires.
Lightly sand the armature and put er back together and tell us the good news
Ok so sanded up the armature. Put everything back together checked all battery terminals and off we go. Shutter on start slow to build speed. And just starting to smell the gremlin. Didn’t want to risk any further damage to motor or controller. One thing I will have to do is pull the motor and install a new bushing. Motor ohms out correctly. So by process of elimination at this point it seems the controller is injured and in need of a hospital.
If you have shudder it’s a sign:(
If I read correctly you check controlers