Hello! Looking to get running a pretty crazy setup that was left out on the lawn. Currently cleaning a lot of connectors but looking to get wheel spin:
Main contactor not closing (primary concern).
So from the service manual I tried measuring Pin 1 and 2 (keyswitch on) and am only getting about 5V when connecting to B-. Is it just cleaning those connections or is a whole new harness the solution? 72V on the main contactor fuse. Not sure where to start but trim is all removed.
2000 E825 Truck style mfg. 4/19/00
Recently refreshed with 24 LFP 100ah cells - verified voltage ~73.7 V, previously running on some older calb cells with a Brusa 3.3 kw J-1772 charger (looks to bypass Zivan completely).
Ride-4-Fun 7.5 motor upgrade probably around -â09-10? Motor date stamp is â09
Unknown about controller programming
12v systems work and fuses checked(horn, lights, turn, etc) when master disconnect switched. and ignition on. (notice it seems to hold power even after turning off for a bit, is there some sort of time delay or something?)
BDI only shows 0000, no other codes.
DC/DC recall looks like it was not done
Empty brake reservoir (read about rear wheel cylinder leaks) and looks like suspension was upgraded due to the new battery weight - will work on this later.
Handbrake switch corroded so jumping temporarily(could be an issue I admit)
Original owner passed away but one of his friends(who is working on this with me) worked on adding the battery upgrade with him and doesnât remember too much about what was done other than driving it around (no hills, probably a mile or two at a time).
Hey rubble - welcome to the group.
It sure sounds like you picked a hell of a project to wet your feet on.
There is quite a bit to unpack here.
Interesting points worth noting-
Main contactor not closing (primary concern).
Donât be concerned about this just yet. It will close when good and ready (after a series of safety checks). A few of them even look for a presence of a contactor. (shorted/open/missing). If there was an issue it would show a code on the PID.
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So from the service manual I tried measuring Pin 1 and 2 (keyswitch on) and am only getting about 5V when connecting to B-
I find this strange. If you only had 5v on P1, P2, then the controller would not power up or light up the PID (which you say in conflicting statement that it is ON and showing 0000. We might want to revisit or review this test later.
â Q: Is the PID only lit up for a few seconds then going dark?
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DC/DC recall looks like it was not done
Correct, You are running a type3 PWB converter. Your update has not been done.
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Handbrake switch corroded so jumping temporarily(could be an issue I admit)
Ok for now. Those wires need to be connected to go. When KeyOFF, it should be producing a continuous tone if the wires stay connected.
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First test should always be:
From cold boot (MainSw OFF for 60 sec) and KeyOFF.
Observe PID while switching MainSwON.
PID should light up for 10 sec, show you a few numbers, then go out.
Does this happen?
Verify (Y/N)?
Place your meter across the POS and NEG on top of the controller.
You should see PackV.
Verify (Y/N)?
Ok, so now entering into stranger territory. The moment MainSw is on the PID immediately lights 0000 and just stays there permanently (well more than 60 seconds), regardless of key state.
No sound tones, but keyON does indeed activate the rest of the vehicle and weirder, they stay on even after switching back to key off. Testing continuity at the ignition terminals indicates it works, but somehow something is keeping it on and persist when physically cut off.
No sound tones, but keyON does indeed activate the rest of the vehicle
Does it pulse beep when switched into Rev?
If no-> chances are the beeper has been disconnected.
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and weirder, they stay on even after switching back to key off.
I believe that is normal(not 100% positive on the Type 3 PWB Converters. Everything after that is for sure.)
There is a Delay-off circuit on the 12v accessory circuit. The lights may stay on for 30 seconds and eventually go off.
Try this:
Over on the pass side, you will see the converter. It is that aluminum box with fins and potted material sealing it up. It has a 1x16 white connector with a bunch of wires.
Power down the car and remove that big long plug. Inspect plug and pins in the converter. look for corrosion/dirt/crap. Give it a shot of contact cleaner and if it looks good, plug it back in with a little wiggle.
Does it pulse beep when switched into Rev?
If no-> chances are the beeper has been disconnected.
Okay, so maybe not the entire 12v is working. It looks like the beeper is connected (thing above and connected to the PWB). Applied 12v and voila! Golf cart noise. While there, I upped it and applied to the coils and heard the âclunkâ noise so the main contactor is confirmed working.
Also turns out pin1 on the controller was pushed up when removing the connector on the controller side. Sure enough reseating and probing 1 and 2 yielded full 72v so happy about that.
Also confirming the delay circuit is still here on type 3 pwb. Sure enough, waited just a little longer and everything shut off.
Newbie question time - how do I remove this connector? I do see that some pins are blue from corrosion through the plastic. I see three âflapsâ on the bottom and accidentally broke one off. Is it just a matter of pulling harder or do I have to remove those coin slot lock things on the sides? I couldnât find documentation on the type 3 PWB unless thereâs a link or topic I missed.
I guess you are more of a tech that you thought. You are welcome to go off script and do all sorts of random probing, crossing wires, and blindly inject voltage to test things out on your own.
not a good idea applying 72V to things which are not ready to receive it. Kinda like laying in front of an old truck with a manual transmission in gear and having a buddy put 12V on the starter solenoid. Itâll click and turn the motor and other things which might roll it off the jacks and drop it on a body part.
People trying to help you go through the slow process of finding out whatâs wrong without destroying other parts will not follow or continue because nothing can be counted on still functioning through the process.
I appreciate you calling me out on the EXTREMELY poor choice of words. No, I did not apply 72v to the coils(battery is disconnected anyways).
There was no reverse sound or buzzer, @AssyRequired said to listen for a beep. Horn works but buzzer didnât. Mentioned previous owner might have disconnected it, checked and it was running to PWB. Disconnected from terminals and just did 12v to buzzer. Sound confirmed so buzzer not broken and possible poor connection/PWB issue and can eliminate that step.
Since the main contactor is above the buzzer, and again isolated, I simply moved it âupâ to the coils to see if it closed, no other components could receive voltage.
Iâve seen many a welded/pitted contactor, and deal with them frequently at high voltage for work - just so happens we have a supply and thatâs a part that can be replaced easily if necessary.
As it stands, currently cleaning/inspecting wires per instructions above. Obviously thatâs a lot more tedious and will take some time. Would still be neat to get this back on the road.
