2002 e825 not moving, contactor not engaging, but constant buzzer and 88 on BDI

2002 e825 not moving. The contactor does not try to engage. The BDI reads 88 and hour glass symbol is lit up and the buzzer buzzes, no matter what. Emergency brake location doesn’t make a difference and road/turf switch doesn’t make a difference. The only way to get those things to stop is to turn off the main battery disconnect, cutting all power to the cart.
The lights, blinkers, wipers, horn, brakes and brake lights all work as they should, however none of them are receiving a full 12v. Charger charges as it should, key interlock within the charger works as it should.
If I touch the grey/white and white wires, from the relay, together, it makes the contactor engage. Yesterday, when I touched the grey/white and white together, the tires immediately started spinning at full speed (front end is in the air and tires are off the ground. Today, the contactor still engages, but wheels do not immediately spin. Another difference is that there seems to be a constant full battery pack voltage at the controller now, whether the contactor is engaged or not.
I have a feeling I’m dealing with more than one issue which is making it more difficult for me to chase down. Any advice is appreciated.

I don’t find much info ref code 88. Still looking.
When was the last time this car worked properly?
What changed?
Or did this just come to you this way?

As you may be coming aware of these things have all sorts of safety checks and interlocks to protect you and some of it’s internal systems. Bypassing them might get you into trouble. I stole this from the archives(not taking credit for it)

Here are some possible reasons the main contactor will not close:
the parking brake is on
the parking brake interlock switch is stuck
the charger is plugged in
the charger interlock switch is stuck
the throttle switch is stuck open
the main contactor coil is shorted or open
the key switch is shorted or open
the wire harness connector on the steering column has overheated

It sounds like you like to jump ahead in the book to get to the exciting stuff. Good thing you were up on stands! If still on the ground… THAT would be exciting!!!

First try to find out what that buzzer is so upset about. Look at that e-brake switch. Pull a wire off. Does it stop? (probably not). Then jump it to the other wire. (hopefully-yes). I believe these need to be closed to go. See if you can fix this before you go rolling. Just don’t jump it and go otherwise you will forget and never remember until you leave the brake partially on and try to drive away. If this doesn’t do anything different, and a quick check with a meter shows the switch working, put the wires back on, find the buzzer and put a bit of tape on it so it is not as annoying and won’t drive you nuts wile you probe around for the real issue.

The full speed runaway on (forced) clunk is interesting. Your controller may have seen a problem and prevented the main contactor from closing.
Take a good look at your pedal. Disconnect the plug and probe it’s pins to see if scale goes from 0 to 5k. 5k to 0 and a set that is normally closed when up and opens when pedal starts to go down.
Rattle it up and down a bunch of times to see if that does anything.

Why the runaway didn’t happen again the next time you tried it is a bit of concern, or maybe you cleared the issue? You may have blown the FETS in your controller and now it needs to be sent in for repair. What mode was it in? We might be able to continue tests in the other direction before shipping controller off. It may have not been the inrush voltage but more of the spike when you unclunked the main relay. Where does that go?. Others here WAYYY more educated than me might disagree in which case I will retract this bit of thought. When you manually close the relay now it charges the internal Caps and when released you probably see some residual voltage hanging out not being used.

Please check if your vehicle has had the DC-DC converter recall performed (amongst other recalls). You can enter the VIN number on the page below.

@jrjava - The DC converter recall has been performed. In addition, I used to think that I was having an issue with the converter, since it was not sending out the full 12v, so I purchased a used/working one from Ebay and both converters provide near identical voltages.

@AssyRequired - I purchased the cart, in the condition that it’s in, last year and am just now getting around to really trying to figure out what’s going on with it.

  • The parking brake interlock switch is functional. I’ve taken it apart, cleaned and reassembled to be completely sure everything was getting a good connection. It does pass the continuity tests. What I’m unsure of is the required voltage that is supposed to be coming in and on which wires. There are 3 wires connected to the switch. From top to bottom, it’s Green, White/Green, Yellow/Green - As of now, there is only voltage (6v-8v) coming in on the White/Green. I have tried pulling them all off of the switch, some off of the switch and have jumped them to each other in every way I can think of, multiple times, with varying conditions of (key on, key off, interlock jumped, etc. etc.)… but it makes no change in the continuous buzzing.
  • The charger interlock does work. The only way that I’m able to tell, without a cart that will move, is that I set the timer relay to it’s minimum (< 1 second) and all 12 volt accessories (lights / wipers / horn / etc.) are un-operational almost immediately once the charger is plugged in. So, if I’m not mistaken, that lets me know that the key switch signal is being cut out as soon as the charger is plugged in.
  • I’m assuming the Key Switch is also operational, for the same reason as the charger interlock above. I can get the 12v accessories to come on and off with the turn of the switch. Similar issue though of not being 100% sure of the voltage that should be going through the line. It’s currently only around the same as the parking brake, and all other accessories at 6v to 8v.
  • I don’t believe the wiring harness overheated. I’ve inspected the wiring pretty thoroughly, in an attempt to make sure that everything is in it’s correct location and tested continuity on almost every single wire.
  • The throttle is what I’ve worked my way to, and have opened it up but not done any testing. The only thing I’ve done was some “Rattling” and moved it up/down through it’s full range of action about 100 times (+/-) now.
  • The main contactor coil, I’m still trying to figure out and open to suggestions on testing. I do know that I’ve been unable to get a voltage reading on the two smaller wires on the bottom.
  • I don’t’ recall what drive mode I was in, when jumping the grey/whit and white, for the full speed contactor experiment. I will say that the drive switch position, has made no difference in the buzzer either.

Additional background information. Before I was at my current issue, there was another. The cart’s BDI would not come on at all. The only time it would show life was when turning on the primary battery/power switch in the battery compartment. It would blink the miles briefly, go out and not come back on for any reason. The cart would not move, but the other 12v accessories were still operational, as they are now. In my efforts, reading and video watching, I discovered that I had no voltage at pin 2 of the controller. From what I read, I was supposed to have 72v there when the switch/key was turned on… same as pin 1, but was constant 72v for pin 1 Going off of that information, I jumped 72 volts over to pin 2, from the hot side of the contactor. Huge spark flew from the contactor bolt as soon as I touched it. Even welded/melted the pc of metal that I touched it with. After that though, the BDI did come alive, so I guess it was somewhat of a success in that regard. At what cost though, I don’t know. The BDI, now, will not do anything but show the 88, buzzer constantly on, etc…

BTW, Thank you for your replies/info. Sorry for the delayed response on my end. It’s been a hectic couple of days and it’s taken me that long to start/finish this message. The cart’s at my warehouse and I probably won’t be able to test any new theories or report any new info until Monday/Tuesday.

What is your email address? I have a few pages that might help.

I just messaged you my email.

Did you try the trouble shooting tree in the manual?