So I’m about to start on an electric conversion of my 1968 VW Karmann Ghia.
My goals are generally decent highway speed and acceleration with not much emphasis on range. 10-20 miles would be fine. I just want to go visit my local friends and get down to the store… stuff like that. I work from home, so no commute. My area isn’t particularly hilly. I mostly get around on my (50 lb 1950’s swiss messenger) bike right now, so I’m pretty good at finding the routes that avoid hills anyway.
So generally I was gonna run 144 volts with a warp 9 and a curtis 1231.
I was going to get a kit from electroauto.com for this first foray into the world of conversion… I figured it was probably worth the premium to make sure I had everything I needed right off the bat.
For batteries, I was looking at some 90 Ah Dekas, but a friend recommended these Tempest batteries to me: TBC38 (Kit includes Ten Batteries)
They’re less expensive, but nominally the same performance… makes me a little scared. Thoughts?
The main questions I have, actually, have almost nothing to do with the electrical part of the conversion. I’m pretty comfortable, generally, with electricity. I was wondering about suspension and brakes. I’m going to be putting ~ 900 lbs into the car, which I imagine will have some significant effects on both braking and suspension. I’d love to hear from those who have converted an old-school VW and upgraded the suspension or brakes about where I should go and what I should get to keep my car from dying under the additional mass.
i would think you wouldnt need to do anything outside of adjusting the spring arm, as vw used that style front end on all there early models bus, bug, and so on.
sounds like overkill on the motor and controller. 12 Lead batteries is a very tight fit in a ghia, and going 12 x 12v may not be your best solution. You might wanna consider 12 x 8v which would allow 8" motor and curtis 1221… save you money, and get better range.
You will want that 9" motor. You will want to keep the clutch. Rebirthauto makes a killer adaptor for the warp and kostov series motors 9" and up. Get a better controller than Curtis, they are anemic in max amps.
You can fit 16 6 volt lead acid batteries, 8 in the back seat area, 4 in the rear luggage area and 4 up front. Weight balance is good and handles well, but the car will be very heavy. Minimum of front disk brakes should be used.
[QUOTE=electricvw;7649]You will want that 9" motor. You will want to keep the clutch. Rebirthauto makes a killer adaptor for the warp and kostov series motors 9" and up. Get a better controller than Curtis, they are anemic in max amps.
[/QUOTE]
well, it totally depends on the OP goals… if he doesn’t want to pay the extra for ‘go-fast’, a very nice conversion could be built with 8" motor, curtis 1221, and 96v (12 x 8v interstate/USBattery probably have 40ish mile range) or more pep but less range with 120v (10x12v…).
The extra weight and cost of going with 9" motor, 500amp controller, higher v battery pack gets to be significant. Just an option to consider.
The other option battery-wise to save a LOT of weight, but cost more is to pony up to LiFePO4… which cost 2x, but last 3x. The issue there is to be careful not to go too small on capacity because an oversize controller will kill them if you spend much time pulling over 3C. i.e. if you get 100aHr cells, a small controller like the curtis 1221 is a good ‘governor’ as it would keep you down around 3C max pull at 300-350amps. A big zilla would drive nice, but kill your batteries and maybe the motor too.
I disagree. All modern high power controllers will let you taylor to your setup to keep every thing in order. The extra weight of the 9" is insignificant on a street car and having a decent motor will give you the torque you will want. Lead is heavy and if you can get lithium. The big 9" is not for speed but for reliablity and torque. At 144 volts you will have a decent performing ghia and remember, you don’t have to put the hammer down just because you have the power at hand but it’s nice to have to heh out of the way of other twits that can’t and shouldn’t drive or to have a bit of fun light to light.
It is in the end your call but this comes from experience.
[QUOTE=electricvw;7652]… modern high power controllers will let you taylor to your setup to keep every thing in order. The extra weight of the 9" is insignificant on a street car and having a decent motor will give you the torque you will want. [/QUOTE]
my only point is that an 8" with a ‘limited’ controller like the 1221 at 300-400amps would be a very drivable car for a thousand or 1500 dollars less than a 9" and a zilla 1k, which would have to be dialed down to 500 amps max anyway to keep from smoking the motor. If you stick at 120v, the 8" is an option… bumping up to 144 volts you pretty much HAVE to go to a 9" and a curtis 1231 or a zilla or some other more hefty controller…
[QUOTE=dtbaker;7653]my only point is that an 8" with a ‘limited’ controller like the 1221 at 300-400amps would be a very drivable car for a thousand or 1500 dollars less than a 9" and a zilla 1k, which would have to be dialed down to 500 amps max anyway to keep from smoking the motor. If you stick at 120v, the 8" is an option… bumping up to 144 volts you pretty much HAVE to go to a 9" and a curtis 1231 or a zilla or some other more hefty controller…[/QUOTE]
I run 96 volts with a GE 9" and a Synkromotive controller that will do a max of 156 volts if I need and 700 amp max output. Constant output is 400. The Curtis is 400 max. It is anemic. You can run 144 volts in an 8" if you advance the motor for the voltage. If you are limiting yourself to only 500 amps why spend that kind of money for the Zilla when there are others out there that can do what you need for less. I suggested the 9" because I guarantee you will want to upgrade and if you buy now you only buy once. If you only get an 8" now and in a year decide to go with a larger more powerful setup you will have to find a buyer for your used parts and you will then have to buy the larger. If you buy the larger you will have a motor that will upgrade with your desires with no extra hassle. I have a 9" which is still upgradable and a controller that is still upgradeable and all I need is to dump in more batteries and I’m good to go.
Your call. You will do OK with the 8" and the Zilla. The Zilla will be upgradable so that is a good choice. Buy the best if you can. Pay now or pay later.
