Connected the last wires, rolled the E-Porsche out in the drive, flipped the switches, pushed on the notgas pedal and there’s nobody home. I have an Alltrax 7245 controller and a Curtis manual (all I have) and the controller has 4 spade connectors but the manual shows only 3. I hope I have picked the wrong ones.
tommyt
Why the hell are you using a curtis manual for an alltrax controller?
they’re totally different manufacturers… go to alltrax’s website and download the manual for your controller.
Do you have 12 volts to the contactors? Does the Altrax have a ksi? If so the proper sequwnxw hA to occur. Primary contactors with the key no foot on the go pedal then the ksi will be satisfied. maybe the ksi is wired wring if the primary contaadtor is closed. Is the pb6 microswitch wired corredtly? Use the outside spades to the ksi.
New Dawn
This particular controller does not have the high pedal disable enabled and in any event the pot is working correctly (0 ohm at no pedal - 5K ohm at full pedal). I do have 12V at terminal 1 ; 2 & 3 are to the pot and 4 is vacant. With the contactor pulled in I have 90V between B+ & B- . I have since removed some batt cables to make it a 12V system (doesn’t scare me so bad). With the controller leads disconnected, I flashed the motor leads and it does run. With 12V on B+ & B- the motor does not run. With 12V on B+ & B- and the motor lead at M- disconnected terminal M- shows a steady 12V and does not vary with pot inputs. I am beginning to suspect the controller even tho it worked fine when I took it out of my previous conversion. what do you think ?
tommyt
get the right manual
http://www.alltraxinc.com/files/Doc100-045-A_DWG-AXE-No-Reverse-wire-dia.pdf
Have you checked the motor to see if it is ok? Just run the 12 volts and bypass the controller. a 12 gauge wire will suffice for this. Make sure the wheels are off the ground and the motor will spin reverse the polarity to make the motor spin in the other direction. Just for a second to see if it is a motor problem, that will rule out the motor, and narrow the search for the problem.
New Dawn
As I pointed out in my previous post I did check the motor and it is fine. Also I mentioned that I had 12V on the #1 spade terminal. I’m suprised that no one caught that because that was the problem. It is on the road now and I can see that motor temperature will be my limiting factor. With no hood, ambient in the low 80’s the motor will sometimes touch 350F. backing off on the notgas pedal and/or downshifting quickly brings it backdown to 250 - 300. What motor temp are you seeing? By the way, shifting up or down with no clutch is no problem.
tommyt
Tommy,
Any pics of your project?
Ben
Ben
I have documented this project with photos and if I can figure out how to do it I’ll post them.
tommyt
Not sure if you have this running yet or not. If I read this correctly, you usually can’t do just a 12v test (unless it’s directly from battery to motor). Controllers will have a minimum voltage at which point they will not operate.
Also is your total system voltage high enough for that model of controller?
Good luck!
SOME controllers have a min voltage. Mine works 12V to 156V… you really have to ask the manufacturer.