Picked up a 2002 E825 and 45v Chevy batteries. Wanted to try an initial systems check. Key was missing so clamped the two leads together with an alligator clip (red/ green and orange/green). Took two volt batteries and connected in series for 90v and connected directly into the harness under the seat. Screen doesn’t fire up; don’t hear any relays or solenoids clicking. Checked under hood fuses; one missing, one blown. Replaced to no avail. Grounded multimeter on battery and probed every larger gauge wire for voltage under the dash again no luck. Plugged in charger for a few seconds and it does light up and blink. I understand I would need a voltage spoof to make the gem move with 90v but just to get lights, horn, dash should this setup work?
I think the switch is on @Inwo. Noticed I have a deltaQ charger…has four wires…
Green has a heat shrink connector that is no longer connected to anything
Red-going to the right side of the bus bar/ fuse above the 12v inverter (connection was very loose). Tighten it up
Black-going to right side of GE controller
White- spade connector to no-where although there is a second dangling wire that also goes to top right of controller
Green wire from charger sends 72v to car to allow it to run.
At least on the newer cars.
White only needed for charging.
You should have battery voltage from blk red and blk to green.
black/green -no voltage
Black/red - no voltage
Plugged in charger and measured voltage
Black/red - 200v!
The 200v reading is not real. Disregard.
The problem is no power from batteries to where red and black leads connect.
That should be the point where b+ and b- connect.
Is switch ok? Fuse ok?
Mystery solved after some continuity testing. I only had batteries hooked into the harness under the seat for testing. Didn’t realize that I needed batteries up front as well to fire things up! Was confusing because I would have 90v at both ends of the harness and nothing under the dash. Ready for a voltage spoof and magic magnet!