Anyone had to replace their switch disconnect 100A? Where did you locate one? and Price?
GEMs with the switch in the dash, right? (2005-2013)
@grantwest has done a few of these IIRC.
We have not sourced a switch. Needs to carry 350a peaks. A 100 a breaker will just trip.
Grant bypasses his. Not safe maybe but keeps him on the road.
Thanks Dave. My bad. I didn’t remember the details.
The switch is located below the fuses in the fuse compartment.
@slrmlr - Curious… How did you determine yours was bad?
Last I saw you were tracking down an odd buzzing noise.
LOL - that is kinda where I was at. Color me confused.
The buzzing start at low level sounding. The buzzing got lounder. Did some searching in the fuse panel area. Buzzing went away when I flipped off the switch.
Interesting…
What else is active? Is the car plugged in and charging?
Is this repeatable? It always comes back when you turn the switch back on?
If yes,
Then the next test would be to flip the switch off again and jump the big connections on the back of the switch with a wire.
Does the buzzing return?
If yes,
Then it is probably not your switch.
This may seem like a really odd and non related question but I am totally serious…
Do you have a windshield wiper arm attached on your car? If not, Is the little nub moving when the noise is happening?
— Snipped From the archives —
- cij - Jul '20
Lately, I have been hearing an odd buzz / humming noise (new noise). Sounds like it could be coming from the front of the car, which I believe really only is the charger. Is this a common noise when the charger is going bad?
LOL, the noise I was hearing was the wiper motor
…I did not notice the switch was on…
I had the exact same issue with a car here, the parking brake buzzer that is mounted in the PSDM would buzz a little, get a little louder, then quieter and so on.
It was somehow related to the F/L/R circuitry. When the car was in Low or High or Reverse (do not remember which one) it would not buzz. We were converting the car to AC so we just bypassed the PSDM for gear selection and hard wired the PSDM into a gear that did not make noise.
Long story short - Bad PSDM.
All you are doing by flipping the breaker is turning off the power to the real problem. It’s not your breaker.
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Mike- How many times have you split open a PSDM? Have you ever run into the following?
A while ago I was sent a photo from someone that showed a severely cooked board at the main battery hookup points. I can only guess it was from a loose connection.
I’m not sure if it is going to be a one-off problem, but often wonder if this same problem will surface on another car. Seeing as all power for the car goes through the Neg (shunt) side of the PSDM I could see how it is important for a good connection there.
I find many times that really odd symptoms can often be traced back to a bad ground. Your past issue (as well as the issue with slrmlr) might have been this same thing.
Ever since then (whenever I am in there) I always check the backside of the power studs, look for signs of heat, and make sure they are tight-tight when going back together.
Sure- it’s a PITA to get all the way in there to check, but put a piece of tape over the backup beeper while in there and feel good about two things.
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I have never actually taken one out 
Every time it just looks like way too much work and we have been able to work around the problem.
I agree that those are important connections and would need to be checked for tight fit, but I sure that rarely happens.
Ya know what I ended up doing.
I removed the factory Fuse/Disconnect on Ken’s 2008. And installed a early Modle gem battey disconnect you know the ones that are located under the rear passenger side seat of early gems well are used that as a on off switch on Ken’s 2008 with lithium and AC motor.
In fact I was given the switch for free from a kind member here on the forum
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