I think you misunderstand how the temp light circuit works. The motor temp sensor is a Normally Closed switch that opens on Temperature Rise. When motor is hot, the switch opens, the light signals you on the dash, and the controller hobbles your speed. If the temp switch is disconnected, the controller thinks the motor is hot. If you close the loop (by jumping the two wire plug) and the light goes out, then the entire circuit from the little plug to the controller is working as is intended. The controller is fine.
Follow?
What you should be asking yourself is what is missing with the loop in the other direction. Does your motor have a temp sensor? Have you checked it to see if it is closed? Depending on what motor you are using, it may not even be wired up with one, hence the need to jump the harness connector.
I have lost the “Tesla” style of regen braking though….I would like to understand what could’ve caused that to suddenly start working after I cleaned the 23 pin connector……and I would like to have that back if possible…
This statement is confusing. It sounds like you did NOT have it, then you cleaned the connector and suddenly got it? But now that you changed the speed sensor you no longer have it?
First, We may need to clarify what/when are you observing as regen braking? It is a complicated answer and difficult to say without knowing more about what was happening at the time you observed the braking/regen events. First guess is that I suspect it had much to do with the flaky speed sensor.
- What were you doing when you observed this event?
- When exactly/What did you do in between that made you lose it?
Replaced magnet/sensor? This might have something to do with it.
Q- Is you speed now registering correct? (compared to GPS?)
Know that these cars are not exactly set up for “one foot driving” like a Tesla. I don’t pretend to know it all, but there are several tricks the controller does to enhance your drive experience in the name of efficiency and safety.
- Anti-roll-away. Sort of a hill hold/electric parking brake. Intended to keep your car in place when you exit your car to go swat at little white balls.
- Plug braking - Low speed engine brake. It takes energy created by the motor and directs it back into the motor to slow it down. Kinda like throwing it in reverse or like a jake brake in a diesel truck. It is really hard on the motor and generates a lot of heat. Most people turn it off for this reason.
- Regen - This directs energy generated by the motor back into the battery.
The relationship of all three are related to each other in a complex mix of detected speed, pedal inputs, and several settings deep in the controller programming. Once you start messing with any of the inputs, it is generally accepted that the pedal up braking gets messed up.
The tricky bit is identifying what you are feeling without having additional sensors wired into your car. I’m playing around with that now. I thought I had shut down PB, but last test run shows it is still active. I can watch my controller switch from PB to Regen on screen and it feels the same when coasting down hills.
