Flashing Wrench, Temp, Boxes around Drive Modes . Cart will not move. Help!

Hello, I am new to the forum, not new to the world of Carts and Scooters.
I own a 2005 GEM NEV 825 e4
So here is my dilemma:
about two months ago I replaced all of my batteries with new AGM’s.
Cart ran fine with no issues for several weeks. Fully recharging overnight every day as I had been for years. I went out one morning and put key in ignition, flipped main breaker from off to on, turned key to run position, dash lights up then starts flashing the temp, wrench and yellow boxes around the drive position selectors. Battery bars show full charge, and delta q charger shows full charge. No other codes or anything display. Cart will not move forwards or backwards. Completely unresponsive.

I began to troubleshoot myself and here is what I did:
Flipped all switches back and forth several times to ensure they weren’t sticking.
Checked all fuses by pulling them and checking with Fluke for continuity.
All good, no corrosion.
Checked voltage at the batteries all were in range and total was 76.4 volts.
Checked the Delta/q Charger and it had the correct lights illuminated showing full charge.
Check continuity across on/off switch. Operating properly in both positions.
Check ignition switch. Operating properly in both on and off positions.
Checked Magnetic Contactor and found a little bit of corrosion ( tore it down, cleaned contacts, checked it on batteries at 76v and functioned properly. Plugged it back in to original position and found an anomaly, the unconnected voltage of the magnet leads were 76v but dropped to .5mv as soon as I connected it to contactor and turned on ignition.
You can hear a relay click inside PSDM when you turn on ignition. But nothing else.
I have exhausted all other avenues online and with local cart repair shops.
Nobody has ever seen this.

Unplug and Deoxit ALL connectors and all cable connections to the distribution panel.

Your controller might have gone south.

The controller is my fear, but I will try your suggestion tomorrow and see if that works.
Do you know if these controllers can be rebuilt?

I get them rebuilt all the time. Sending 2 in tomorrow.

Pin #23 is disconnected from controller.

That pin sends RS-232 data to display.

Re seat 23p connector.

Try recycle the release of the parking brake. If brake kill switch is fritz it will cause a shut down.

[quote=zompster;30447]Hello,
I have exhausted all other avenues online and with local cart repair shops.
Nobody has ever seen this.[/quote]

I just saw it today. :wink: :smiley:

Pin 23 is one of the pins used for programming control. I make usb cables that connect to p16, p22, and p23.
When you disconnect p23 to read data, loss of data to car causes “flashing the temp, wrench and yellow boxes around the drive position selectors.”

I unplugged all connectors to control board (PSDM) sprayed deoxit on all connections, and still have same symptoms.

I will have to check the pin 23 when it stops raining here. Hopefully that solves it. If not, does anyone have a suggestion where to send board for rebuild and what to expect to pay for rebuild.
Thank you all for quick responses!!

Did you clean the 23p connector?
Very unlikely that controller would fail in that way.
I’ll look for a work around.

I did clean the 23 connector. All pins looked clean before I sprayed them. No visual signs of corrosion or contamination.

Connecting programmer to control will verify data output. Then you know problem is elsewhere.

No B+ to pin 1 also duplicates symptoms.
That would be a simpler fix.

I removed the 23 pin harness and checked pin 23 all looked good at the PSDM. I checked continuity between the connection there and the dash display connection and the wire and pins were good. cleaned the connection at the dash and all looked clean. Leaning towards the PSDM .

Can you check for power with key on at p1 and p2?
Check with 23p plug removed. It’s easier.
Common meter lead goes to B- on controller.
Red lead to p1, then p2. B+ 72vdc.

I’m designing a tester for these.
Looks like I’ll have to add a way to check date on p23.

[quote=Inwo;30540]Can you check for power with key on at p1 and p2?
Check with 23p plug removed. It’s easier.
Common meter lead goes to B- on controller.
Red lead to p1, then p2. B+ 72vdc.

I’m designing a tester for these.
Looks like I’ll have to add a way to check date on p23.[/quote]

I checked for power with key on at P1 and P2 with plug removed.
I got 75.5v at p1, p2, p6, p10, p17, p21. .420mv at p23.

I then removed all of the connections from Controller. and unbolted it from chassis.

When I dissambled the unit I found moisture trapped inside and some corrosion on the main board as well as a resistor rusted away from the board. I was able to solder it back to the board but After reinstalling it, still have the same results.

The control needs to put out 12v on pin 15 and 5 volts on pin 9.
They are the supplies that supplies data output on p23.

If those are missing it might be an easy fix.

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[quote=Inwo;30555]The control needs to put out 12v on pin 15 and 5 volts on pin 9.
They are the supplies that supplies data output on p23.

If those are missing it might be an easy fix.[/quote]

With 23pin connector in place and power on. I am getting 8.7v at p15 and 4.15v at p9.

That’s a little low, yet it should run at those levels.
If you unplug motor tach plug it might come up a little.

Only other check is for data on p23. Need a programmer for that.

Gotcha. As I do not have a programmer I guess I am left with sending Controller in for rebuilding. Who would you have do the rebuild?

Rodney will set you up getting board rebuilt.

Do you know someone with a programmer or an electronics wiz that could look for data?

It still could be control board.

I do not know of anyone who could do testing or that would have a programmer.