RTEV Ruff & Tuff owners unite!

Hi, I have had a ruff n tuff cart since 2009. Lately the lights and wipers stopped working, along with the spedometer. I took it in to a local repair shop and they have had it for five months! Claim the parts have to come from overseas. Well he got the parts and now says it still doesn’t work and needs a wiring diagram. I told him early on to check the wires for mouse damage but he says he needs it anyway. I see that you posted a wiring diagram. Mine is not a 4x4 but perhaps your wiring chart will help anyway. Can you send it to me?

I’ve had no luck finding wiring diagrams. I’ve talked with folks who used
to work for Ruff and Tuff and they have nothing. We need to locate the
manufacturer in China and ask them for a diagram. Somebody has it.

New Member here…

I have a late model 2008 Ruff & Tuff Hunter 4x4, I am the second owner. It was not purchased by the original owner until Dec of 2010 and it currently only has 525 hours on it. It is in excellent overall condition with a few issues that I am working on. Just finished replacing the E-Brake cable, it was snapped in two so I just pulled the old cable out of the sheath and installed a new one.
I have the same issue as another member where my 4WD is engaged and will not disengage. I am planning on removing the electronic module from my front transfer case this evening so I will report back on what I come up with. My red and green 4WD buttons are finicky but when they do operate I can clearly hear the electronic module doing its thing but still won’t disengage.
I also am needing to replace all of my CV boots, they all have large rips in them. Not looking forward to that project!
Anyone having any input on the 4WD issue would be greatly appreciated.

So I just picked up a R&T. 6 seater. Lights and horn do not work. After a little research I found that it is probably the ignition switch. I just ordered on from http://www.ruffandtuffparts.com/resources.html. I am also having brake issues. I am going to try to tear the breaking system down and see what the issue may be. I just wanted to let everyone know that this company can get the parts for you.

The 12V converter has a large inrush when it is energized by the 48V power
from the ignition switch. This arc in the ignition switch causes a lot of
wear and damage to the contacts and they go bad.

So you agree that it is probably the ignition switch then?

Indeed it is. I replaced mine with a 30A switch, just for the D.C.
Converter. Ignition still uses a key. Don’t bother trying to take apart the
lock cylinder the contacts cant be serviced. You could also use a relay
instead, with a resistor to make a 12V cool run on 48V.

ok, I should get new switch in today. I’ll install it and see if that solves the problem. Another problem I am having is that it is only doing a little over 10 mph. Any clue what that could be?

Probobaly want to check your voltage at the motor controller DC input
while at top speed. Bad connection somewhere will cause voltage drop which
really hurts top speed. I don’t know what the rated RPM is on the motor,
mine does 18mph with about 250lbs of extra electrical equipment weight (4x4
hunter buggy). After driving for a while check all bat terminals and cable
connection points for heating. Also check each battery voltage. There was a
serious design flaw installing a battery charger in an unventilated space
up against the batteries. Harmful to battery life cycle.

When I got it the guy said he had charged it all the way. I let it charge over night and it did 17 mph after that so it just wasn’t fully charged. I switched the ignition out and got a new blinker lever. I have everything working but the breaks now. I just need to order new break lines and possibly pads. I haven’t opened up the breaks yet but I know my break lines are seized up.

I need some help in identifying my Ruff &Tuff electric cart. The serial number is. STCX030800353 and it was manufactured in Aug. of 2003. It is a six seater. I don’t have any idea what I have. Any help is appreciated

I am thinking of buying a 2008 ruff n tuff Hunter 4x4. It looks very nice and seems to run well. The headlights don’t work though and the 4x4 stays locked in. What is the maximum it should cost? tires look new, batteries have no corrosion etc.

The drivetrain has three modes: 2WD, 4WD and 4WD+front differential lock.
Something fails with the electro-mechanical control so that the 4WD and
diff lock will engage, but not disengage. You can unscrew the cover from
the front axle and rotate the mechanism by hand (counter-clockwise I think)
to disengage 4WD. The steering is very hard with the differential locked,
but not bad in 4WD.

Headlights could be a problem with the 12V converter, or the switched 48V
that the ignition switch controls to the 12V converter. Do the taillights
work? There is a big arc when the 48V ignition switch closes (inrush for
the 12V converter), which damages the ignition switch over time. I think a
few people have sourced new ignition switches.

im looking at buying this on craigslist to keep or maybe sell for a profit. Do you think this is a good low price? tires look new and it drives good
Ruff N Tuff Hunting Cart Electric 4X4

Ruff N Tuff Hunting Cart Electric 4X4
Sold as is: The lights aren’t working - not sure what’s wrong, man hours to find the problem would be mo… | |

Chris Blattel

nevbuggie Active Members
November 21 |

The drivetrain has three modes: 2WD, 4WD and 4WD+front differential lock.
Something fails with the electro-mechanical control so that the 4WD and
diff lock will engage, but not disengage. You can unscrew the cover from
the front axle and rotate the mechanism by hand (counter-clockwise I think)
to disengage 4WD. The steering is very hard with the differential locked,
but not bad in 4WD.Headlights could be a problem with the 12V converter, or the switched 48V
that the ignition switch controls to the 12V converter. Do the taillights
work? There is a big arc when the 48V ignition switch closes (inrush for
the 12V converter), which damages the ignition switch over time. I think a
few people have sourced new ignition switches. Visit Topic or reply to this email to respond.
In Reply To

arrowslinger29
November 21 |

I am thinking of buying a 2008 ruff n tuff Hunter 4x4. It looks very nice and seems to run well. The headlights don’t work though and the 4x4 stays locked in. What is the maximum it should cost? tires look new, batteries have no corrosion etc. Visit Topic or reply to this email to respond. To unsubscribe from these emails, click here.

I have a 2007 Ruff and Tuff 2 seater. All of a sudden will not go forward or reverse. I had it diagnosed by someone who works on golf carts and was told he thought it was the speed controller, but had never seen a Ruff and Tuff. Do you know where I can find out how to test the speed controller. Also do you know where I can find a controller for my 2007 Cruiser. Controller on cruiser has brand name Himer (?) D20611101. In Ruff and Tuff manual it has part listed as HEG2-3745100 Controller (650AM

1 Like

We’re did you get your switch?
Thanks

Seifert65,

Call https://www.electriccartcompany.com and they can get any part you may need.

Did you find a solution to your issue. I have a 2009 4X4 and it will only go about 1 ft in forward each time it is turned on, but will go a little farther in reverse. I was told it was likely a bad battery, although the indicator shows fully charged.

I was told by friend that is Master Electrician and has electric cart, to check batteries. If 1 battery is bad cart will not run controller. If all batteries test good, it is the controller. Hope this helps.

Sorry, you need to check batteries one battery at a time.