It was pretty easy to set it all up. I put the charger and battery in the same spots, and was able to utilize the existing cabling, etc. I had to run one wire from the charger to the BMS, drill a few holes, and bolt everything up. You can’t really tell from the pic, but the pack has an aluminum frame with places to put bolts. If fit the center of the battery bay perfectly, and the mount points were above aluminum plates welded to the frame. If I added two cells I don’t think it would fit in the same space, and would probably mount it in the front. The hardest part was soldering the BMS wires to the cell. My 40W soldering iron was insufficient, and I had to get a heavy duty iron to get the tabs hot enough to melt the solder.
As wired the BMS only provides balancing and overcharge protection. To add overdischarge protection I would have had to buy a contactor to disconnect the pack and wire it tot he C- lead of the BMS. I was told by Nick at Hybrid Auto that most people don’t bother with the contactor setup. He also told me that this battery could provide up to 200A for 30 sec, which would limit me to a motor with a peak draw of 14kW or 19HP. I’m currently running the stock 5hp motor and I’m fairly happy with it, so I’m not too worried about exceeding the 200A limit.
The charger does not have the NC contact for the interlock, so I initially just connected the interlock wires together and made sure to unplug the car before I drive off. I have since installed a 120vac relay with NC contact, and connected it in between the charger and power cord with a little dongle I made. When the car is plugged in, the NC contact opens, and the controller will not engage the main contactor.
As far as room for 2 packs, you could put one under the seat and one up front. I don’t think you could easily put 2 under the seat though, as it is too big for the outboard slots.