Anyone need a T1 controller?

Does anyone have a use for a T1 controller? I pulled this out of my 2000 4 seater. Working when I pulled it out of the car. In full disclosure, it did overheat on me once in the summer climbing a big hill. Believe it was the original. Ended up replacing with a T2 controller.

Pay for shipping and you can have it. I’m sure I could Ebay it but I’d rather give it away and help someone out.

Let me know if you could use this

Let someone who needs it get first shot, but I can always use it for testing cables etc.

I’d be more than happy to give it to you… especially considering that I’m probably going to have a bunch of questions and need help when I tackle my Lithium project. :wink:

Still have my Volt batteries and the charger and BMS you sold me a few months back, sitting in the box.

Your call… I’m sure you’ll put it to good use

Wait a few days for a more needy user.

I can use it. let me know your Pay Pal and I will send you $20

rodneyadiehl@aol.com

Rodney

Sounds good to me. I need to get you converted to some good batteries now. :slight_smile:

baby steps! :slight_smile:

I’m going to need help with a on-board charger eventually. Right now I have 2 3 bank chargers toping off the wet cells (something the previous owner did)… back to that when i dive into it.

Rodney said he’d take the T1. Want me to let it go to him?

Sure, he needs it more than I do.

OK, I’ll send it to him.

Just shot you an email

Got it check your Pay Pal

In a message dated 5/21/2019 5:39:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, electricforum@discoursemail.com writes:

Hello … looks like I am too late responding for this controller, but I need a T1 controller for my 2002 E825. Anyone else out there have one sitting (maybe they did an upgrade to T2 like Erniea15 did) around I could buy?
I know there are places out there to repair/overhaul, but they want around $500.

Thanks!

What is the issue with yours?

$300 one on Ebay.

I’ve done all the diagnostics out of the GEM manual, and it looks like all switch inputs and voltages going into the controller are good, but nothing happens when the key switch is turned on.

i’ll check out the one on ebay, thanks for the heads up.

I also have one that needs testing if your up for it. It’s not dead, that’s all I know.
Would also look at yours for something simple. Connect it to a programmer if you have not.
My only need for one is testing program cables.

I made up a few T1 program cables with Gem programming port that stays with car.
Monitor function enabled.
$100 delivered if you can find a copy of sw.
These are for T1 only.

T1%20test1 T1%20test2

I can see where that would be valuable if my controller was intermittent or I had trouble codes, but I believe my controller is DOA as it won’t allow the main contactor to close (no “clunk” when I turn the key).

Once I get the controller working I would be interested in buying your set up.

Does the dash display come on with the key?

I have the batteries removed right now, but from what I remember last fall, the dash display does not come on as voltage doesn’t get by the main contactor, and from what I have seen it needs the controller to close.

I believe not. Display should come on if 72v on pin 1 & 2.
Hard to test for 5v at display, but you can check at throttle and 12v at speed sensor.
Monitor sw checks all these things, but only if T1 is not totally dead.
I can lend you a cable if someone shares sw with you. Only need voltage on P1 to use.
24v is enough. Not sure if 12v will boot it up.