I am having trouble removing a rear brake drum.
Removed the screws and beat on the drum with no success. Anyone have a secret.
Can I remove the hub bolt and remove hub and drum together? With the hub and drum off together I might be able to press appart
Have you tried a torch on it? Then hammer it. Sometimes works…
As for pulling the hub bolt, here are the cutaways:
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I was afraid to put a torch on it because of the seals and bearings.
Drums can get pretty hot just during normal service, let alone heavy braking. Not trying to make it glow, just want to heat the drum up a bit. The torch won’t be anywhere near the bearings or seals.
You can also crack the bleeder fitting. See if there is any residual pressure. Even leave it open when you heat the drum so it won’t build any pressure.
I use a 3 leg puller. Cheap at Harbor Freight
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If there’s any “spring” like feeling to it when you pull it then you’ll need to back the pads off. I don’t see a manual adjuster so it’ll have to be via bleeding the wheel cylinder.
If it feels solid, try getting penetrating fluid in the hold-on screw holes and at the studs where they meet the drum. Thin penetrating fluid(marvel mystery oil or ATF + acetone) is better than thick(engine oil).
After soaking bang on wooden block to protect drum on left side then right and repeat. Then top/bottom repeat.
I finally got the brake drum off removed everything and cleaned and installed a new cylinder, installed all the shoes and now the brakes are too tight in the drum. I can’t figure out how to adjust them in some
Same shoes and put back in the exact location removed?
I don’t know what was holding them but I used a Hamer and tap around the shoe and it moved in some. That is the worded brake design I have ever seen.
hammer the brake shoes inward. Install the drum and hammer around the drum untill it turns free. Install the wheel. The shoes self after the first or 2nd hard stop.
Note: the brakes must be thoroughly bled or air in the lines will keep pressure on the cylinder.