I tried removing the M5 keeper screw but It won’t budge. Any great ideas how to get that out?
I’m new to this so I am learning.
Thanks in advance
If the screw head is not too messed up yet, Go out and get yourself an impact driver kit and a big dead blow hammer.
Soak the screw with penetrating oil and maybe warm it up with a torch a bit and give the screw a couple of good whacks.
The trick to using this driver is to make sure you have the correct fit on the bit, make sure the driver is going lefty-loosey, and snug up all the slack in the tool by turning the whole tool in the direction you want the screw to go, hold it, and smack the backside of the tool.
If the screw is too messed up to get a good bite, then you will need to drill off the head.
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Thanks… I soaked the penetrating oil all night on the one I am trying first. I hadn’t thought about the impact driver. I’ll heat it up first and then smack it…
Thanks
It’s amazing how well the impact drivers work for cases like this. It makes you wonder how you survived all the years without it.
I have an impact screw driver but not a 5mm allen for it… that is really small to be beating on… but I’m going to go to HF to see what they have if I need to.
Y- the choice of the Allen screw was not the best choice for that. If the hex has already been partially damaged, then the impact may just finish it off. Drilling it off may be the best plan.
No need to put one back in.
Really? If you don’t put them back in what holds the drum on car?
EDIT: Ok… I see in the drawing… you are right… doesn’t look like they are needed
So I got the drum off but can’t get the hub off now. The bearing is nice and smooth but I really wanna clean it up. Got any hub removal tricks you can share?
Leave the hub/carrier assembly complete. Remove the assembly via 4 bolts at the mount.
If you are doing the front, you will need to remove the nut/axle stub too.
I had a friend that is a mechanic come over and we were able to remove the hub via a pulley puller and a good wack from a hammer. This thing had been sitting outside in the weather for what looks like years. Guy I bought it from said batteries dies a year ago and it was parked… turns out that could not be true… So, anyway, I want to clean the rust and corrosion off these carriers and squirt some paint on them. I ordered replacement kits for the pads (which were not actually worn) springs and cylinders. I figured cleaning them up couldn’t hurt before putting them back on.
Thank you for your answers however… You have been very helpful.
There is that good whack with a hammer thing again.
Hmmm… Inspect this car carefully. How much rust are you finding?
Inspect all the bolts involved in the suspension, maybe even the the steel parts of the suspension. Is there unreasonable rust on the lug nuts? (were they tough to get off?
Keep an eye out for weird signs of a high water mark on the inside of the body panels. Is this car just overall rusty?
While you are working around the rear suspension, Inspect that rear swing arm for cracks. They are prone to cracking around the areas around the rear spring mounts.
No high water marks… the shocks themselves aren’t really rusted that bad visibly, but they do have some rust. The bolts also have some rust.
Those joints had already had 1/4" plates welded on them. (I had to do that for a friend so I was aware of that issue). I didn’t do it on this one but it had been done.
To finish answering your questions… there was some rust on the lug nuts but nothing I would consider out of the ordinary.
There is general over all rust on steel parts.
K- Good…
Just trying to establish if this was a flood car from FL. These cars show up every now and then. People think they are getting a great deal, only to find out they are rust buckets.
Side note- are you Craig? There is a guy over on FB doing the same thing (parade float)
I am he. ha ha I have done two previously but they were on power wheelchairs.
You guys seem to really like whacking it a lot.
Maybe we do, maybe we don’t… LOL