Rear window

What am I missing? Top trim.

Also what works on rear window rash? Must have been loaded with something against window that was rubbing.

looks like you are missing the rubber trim piece… depending on what caused the road rash and how deep it is you might be able to polish it out…

Must glue on then. No screw holes.:confused:

Use 3M body accessory tape. It comes in a small roll at auto parts stores. It is what they use to glue things on cars like side body mouldings.

Found a picture and # for a trim piece. No fasteners shown, so it must glue on like you say.


Leaving it out for now.
Made my first run up and down the hill after a manual battery charge.

Fixed, brake switch, and tail lights.
Rear window and charger, and I’ll be ready to roll.:D:clap2:

My strip was falling off so I pealed it off and could see the remnants of two strips of cheap tape. I reglued it on with the 3M tape. I worked in an auto parts store for years so I know that is what the after market used as a replacement for the OEM tape. It is two sided, made for these applications.:poultry_leg: Happy Holidays! Barry.

think GEM car used tape… I had a problem with my windshield molding coming loose… I went to a car glass shop… not sure how my rear window is held in


Rear window doesn’t seem to be cut right. Or else roof is not right.
I can’t get it to show in picture.
Rather than following the straight line of the roof molding, window is 1/4" higher in the middle.
It won’t fit without bowing out on sides.

Need info from someone who has put in a rear window lately.

wonder if the window you have is for a different year car… I have the rear window cut for the handle… which I don’t have on the eS… I’ve tried to order a full window twice and have gotten the cut window… I gave up


Mine came like that from the factory. Not a very good seal.

Looks to me like, marking and trimming, it would fit perfectly.

Not much to lose really. Pretty scratched up.

If I cut it there is no do-over. :slight_smile:

Caution: the plexy becomes brittle after being in the sun. So just use caution when playing/ or cutting the window it Will not take to much to crack it use caution and you will be fine.

I have the All extra molding prices you would need to install the window. Let me know if you need or want them. I have them because my 08 had a few scratches in the rear window and i removed the window to polish them out and I broke the window being careless and had to buy a new window from gem $200 I just used all the original trim on my new windo and have all the New Gem window trim that came with my new window

I just need the top piece and information on how it fits.
For $200, I might get a new one. This will be a good practice run.

Does it make sense that mine won’t fit?

Got it cut, but still don’t see what holds the top in.
Hope the new one comes with instructions.

Out of 5 later model gem’s here in my complex and 3 more post 2005 models that I looked at for sale in “The Villages” . I have NOT seen a rear window that did not bow out at the bottom… I did not look at any pre 2005 models in my purchase search.

See if you can get me a picture of the top.

The real window should come with a handful of trim and moldings.

The top of the plastic window will have molding that slips on to the window and then has a soft rubber gasket/seal that pushes up and makes contact with the window frame portion of the roofline.

Then there is a large flat black molding piece that mints to the roof and go’s just above the Rubber molding gasket that slides into the window. This creates just enough of a lip that it holds the top portion of the window “IN” then the sides of the window are screwed into the car and another molding should cover up the screw holes.

A common mistake people make when installing the rear windows is they use to large of screws to hold the plexy window in. This causes the rear window to crack in and around the corners. You want to do 2 things to avoid this. #1 enlarge the holes on the plexy window. #2 run smaller screws that hole the window (you don’t want the threads of the screws making contact with the sides of the holes in the plexy window) this is what causes the window to crack. The window expands and contracts and the car can also move quite a bit so if you just make a bit of room for expansion and contraction you will kill 2 builds with One stone. If the window makes contact with the side of the window frame with will squeak as it rubs and drive you crazy. You want the window to fit in there but NOT make contact with surfaces that can cause it to rub and squeak.

I choose to NOT run the factory molding tape to hold the window in. I used Velcro to hold the window in. This creates a space and makes a gasket and also allows me to remove the window if need be.

For the time being, mounted the old one.
Still don’t know how factory trim works, but can’t be much better than this.

Not cleaned or painted yet. It’s a truck. Need stainless 6/32 button head hardware too.

Found a nice piece of alum extrusion at my brothers.
I guess it looks kind of goofy wide in the pictures, yet I don’t see how narrower can hold the top rubber in place.:confused:

If it was white or black it might blend in.
Yes it’s cracked. :eek: Why didn’t Grant warn me. :D:D

looks really good… thanks for sharing the photos

let me see if I can get Lynn’s e-address up gemcarparts at yahoo you guys and gals know to add the @ and the dot com