Dont worry, its your thread, it was always there.
J/k
Dont worry, its your thread, it was always there.
J/k
I’m getting closer. This company lists the sway bars in size and then Wall thickness & then Length. Same for the arms.
Looks like I could buy the exact size I Need
You could always put on a 2002 rear suspension(swinging gate) and call it a torsion system. LOL
Looks like I would still need some mounting Hardwear (the rubber bushings) that mount to the frame & the various brakets that would come off the shock mount points (thoes would be easy. And then I would need the adjustable drop links with Hyme joints
Looks like it will or should be less expensive
Then the one I made up for my 2002 E4 that kit was $500 and I still had to do lots of hot Rodding
These Sway Bar Mounts will work.
I’m guessing the bar will need to be stood off from the frame a few inches to add clearance for the sway bar arms to move. Very similar to what I had to do with my Front sway bar I made for my 2002
Ok I made up a Mock Sway bar out of 3/4 PVC.
This way works BUT it has some problems.
#1 the arms are going to be 17+inches long
#2 the sway bar is going to have to be “stood off” (a spacer made) from the frame
#3 ground clearance will be effected. (Not sure if it matters) but you will see the bar below the car
Option #2 is looking MUCH better
In this position the bar is up and mounted on top of the frame & behind the battery.
#1 this places the bar closer to the shocks so the arms don’t have to be 17 inches long More like 10inch’s
#2 shorter sway bar arms = less leverage and a flatter ride side to side.
#3 no clearance issues the bottom of the car would have No hanging bars or mounts. You would not see the bar and Hardwear unless u looked under the car
Option #2 is the Bar facing forward. Think of the back of the car where the license plate mounts is where the bar is and the links come forward.
I saw a Jeep rock crawler (JK Modle) sway bar install video and that’s what gave me the idea to mount like this. The Jeep JK sway bar mounts on the top side of the frame and the links face backwards. So my option #2 is just a Jeep jK Swaybar install mounted backwards.
Ok more info.
The bar is measured in Diamater and Thread with. So on my Bar it’s a 33 Wide. It’s .650 diameter and the 48 spline portion is 1-1/8th wide. So NASCAR and other Dirt cars like Sprint cars and Mini Spints use 48 spline. Off road Jeeps use 49 spline. Example the links I posted above will NOT work with a nascar bar.
You guessed it 48 is MUCH different than 49 spline so make sure your bar and your Bar ends match.
This has been a fun learning project. Turns out this is the way to run one of these NASCAR style sway bars. They get mounted in a tube
(See drawing) the sway bar arms keep the bar centered in the Tube. The Sway bar itself has a specific Aera of the bar that the Bushings ride on. That’s why most bars list over all length and then how wide the splines are. This tells you how long the sway bar tube needs to be.
Here is a cut away drawing of what an installed bar should look like ready for the Arms to be installed.
I would think it would be the bushings which keep the whole bar centered in the tube. It is a far better way to hold the sway bar AND let it twist freely and with only torsional movement.
But my Bug was just fine with rubber mounts holding the bars in place.
So it’s all about the tubes? Gotta hand it to you, shes a beauty. You got some mondo bondage going on there… i had a question, its on the tip of my tounge, ah well, talk to you later.
The Sway bar arms attach to the bar and they but up against to and ride on the bushings. So the arms essentially keep the bar centers in the Bushings. The way the bar gos No where side to side like it would with traditional mounts
ah, that’s what you meant, horizontal/side-to-side movement. Probably has a nylon washer to something to prevent metal-on-metal wear of the bushing sleeve since it is a clamp joint on those arms.
You’re a buncha white punks on dope… of course that what he meant when he said its all about the tubes
I swear every time I think I have this thing figured out I find out I’m wrong And I’m looking for some other parts. It’s frustrating that sellers of NEw parts don’t list all the lengths and sizes of said parts. It’s like you have to call and talk to a person to see what the size of the part they are selling is. WHY NOT JUST LIST THE size , so I don’t have to call and ask? what a joke!
I don’t think that pvc is going to be strong enough.
they design them for a particular vehicle’s weight, height, dimensions, etc so they sell them by what vehicle they fit. But I see your point and would add that the torque specs would make sense too besides just physical dimensions.