Hi Guys, I have 2001 Gem Lomgbed and l just removed my motor to inspect the input shaft since I was hearing a lot of clanking when I would let off the gas, after getting the motor out the input shaft looked to be in good shape and the gear box was spinning freely. I went to turn the motor and there was a lot of play between the housing and rotating assembly. I think that is where the noise is coming from, can the motor be rebuilt or do I need a whole new motor? Thank you guys for any and all help.
There is a rubber damper between the motor output shaft and the gear box. They tend to deteriorate and can cause clunking on throttle release or acceleration. They are cheap and easily replaceable.
Do you know where you can purchase them?
IhateGEMs
I like this guy!
Why fix it, when you can burn it?
And then shoot it!
Even go all monster truck on it with heavy machinery!
Doesn’t that sound like more fun?
And, to top it all off, you get the local college involved to build a rocket! And not that wimpy sub oribital crap, a full on, aim it at the sun decaying orbit rocket! Its like a DIY solar flare kit!
Chance. Of. A. Lifetine.
Except, I don’t think that is what is going on here.
Note that you motor is single ended. The rotating assembly is only supported at the brush end with a single bearing. The coupler end relies on the spline and the support of the input shaft bearings.
True- there is a rubber bumper button inside the coupler that absorbs the slack in the coupler lateral play, but I doubt the armature is end to end shifting around enough to make a clunk on decel.
It might be worth exploring other torque movements that may be going on under the hood. Possilby motor mounts? Maybe a cracked CV joint?
1 Like
It might be worth exploring the cost of a Gustov anti tank rifle rental and the price of one shell.
Memories like that dont come along often.
I can post a video to see if you guys think the play is normal or a little much, anyone know how to post a video?
I think it would still be difficult for us to tell from a vid. A better test is what the bearing actually feels like. Is it smooth or gritty/chunky? This might be better if done when the motor was installed.
Depending on your location, you might find a good motor shop locally to have a look at it.
How much effort you should put into it depends on what motor it is and what you intend to do with this cart. Most likely the car could use a motor upgrade.
Your description of (clanking) is interesting. If you turn this motor assembly voer(end for end), do you hear any loose bits in there that may be flopping around?
(Be careful the armature does not fall out when doing this)
Here are a couple of pictures of the motor and input shaft spline.
The bearing at the end of the armature spins freely and smooth.
The differential input shaft is hashed.
Get in touch with Rodney @Old_Houseboater he has some replacements that will.work as the bearing on yours is out of production.
I have input shaft kits that include the rubber bumper
those teeth are dry and worn down. If you replace gear add SPLINE PASTE (honda) tot he gears. Makes a big difference.
1 Like
This ^^^
IIRC, the manual valls for Castrol Olistamoly, which isnt bad, but the Honda paste is the closest thing I’ve seen to the Falk grease we use in grid couplings. They are designed to not seperate in what is essentially, a centerfuge.
You ain’t just a shitten, them Fokkers were Messerschmitt.