Part 2 listed each battery voltage…seem all ok.
Went to the shop Manuel and went thru the diagnosis list and all passed. So decided to take it for a spin to check battery voltage after some use…here are the results.
Went 1/2 mile and everything shut down. Only has a buzz which was the parting brake alarm as being off.everything else black. Turned the key a couple times and heard a clicking in the connector coil…all else black. Waited 10 minutes and turned it on….all normal. Turned around headed for home and the exact same total shutdown in the exact same distance.
Was thinking that since it operated after a waiting period this might indicate a heat problem….felt every component and all cold.
I think you need to back to your batteries. Sounds like a classic bad pack.
Things came back to life because the batteries settled and came up in voltage a little bit.
Yes, You can do this more easily by putting the car on jack stands and then applying the brake while pressing the throttle.
Hook a meter up to monitor pack voltage (~72v) - if you see a large drop in voltage, one or more of your batteries are bad.
Wait- Did I miss something? I saw your first battery V report.
Did you list them again after your ride?
seem all ok.
Let us be the judge of that. If you want our honest opinion you will need to post these numbers for us to see.
Again…
To get a good picture of what is happening it is good to have a Start Voltage (of each Battery) and the end voltage (of each battery) after you run the car for a bit and before charging.
The OTHER important test is exactly what Mike suggested → Do a load test on your pack. If you do it with brakes applied and car on stands in the driveway you can look/watch the meter directly and not have to watch the road. You can see how far it drops when loaded, then watch how far it comes back up when you just let it sit there for a bit.
Even more of a refined look is do the brakestand test on each battery. This is more of a LIVE look at what each battery is doing while you are driving. Attach your meter to each battery one at a time and Brake load with the motor. Record how far each one drops given the same amount of pedal and list the numbers here.
Normally a minor undervolt will trigger a turtle and the car will limp home. A key cycle with a pack below ~68v will cause a -15 error but you should still get the dash lights/errors.
I’m curious how far your batteries are dropping to cause a blackout.
Anything below 68v will have trouble getting the charger to start too.
this might indicate a heat problem….felt every component and all cold.
Component? How about connections? Battery cable connections specifically. Watching the meter when you car goes to blackout will also show if this is an issue.
Thanks for the reply….unfortunately I didn’t take my multimeter on the test ride. In all honesty I didn’t expect to need it. Well lessons learned. Will repeat in the am and post results also load test results.
Thanks again for the interest