Dave,
Each module is suppose to be 7.6V, so that’s 3.8/cell. Where did you get the 4.1V number? There is a sticker on my Zivan NG1 that says on D setting (PRC) it will charge 90V.
7.6 is nominal voltage. Just like lead is 2v. Lead gem pack is 72v. Yet you charge it to 86volts to be “full”
Li-ion max is 4.2v per cell. 8.4v per leaf module. 100.8v per 24s pack.
Most run 20s or 10 modules which is 84v max, to match stock settings.
If zivan charges to 90v, use 22s/11 modules.
90v/22 = 4.09 per cell. Perfect conservative charge.
I went ahead and sent my Zivan NG1 to be adjusted. I will pass the max voltage of 8.4V and average 7.6V values along to the people at Elcon.
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Finally had the maiden voyage, ended up riding all afternoon and giving neighbors rides. Everything works great. 6" lift, air shocks all way round. Runs 40 on flat. Tried MM but rpm sounds to fast for me so running without it for now. The taller tires and extra voltage give it enough. I also put a 10.35 diff in it.
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I lost track. Are you running 24s 98v peak with spoof?
Let us know all about it. You are the first.
Without all the other work you did, would dropping in a pair of 12s Volt batteries be an easy project?
1 to 10?
That’s a cool looking toy. Sounds like it was a fun day.
Troy Hoggard’s iPhone
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Dklsc is running 24 in series. Equivalent of 12 Leaf modules in series.
I’m waiting to see how it goes torque wise.
Yes 24s 98v with your spoof. It will spin the tires on take off if you want to and the acceleration is great. The only problem I had as you know was my heater which is 72v and would not accept the higher voltage so I connected two 12v window defrost heaters in series with it mounted in the dash. As long as you have some know-how I think it was easy conversion, again hardest part is cutting coolant passages if you don’t have a big bandsaw. I believe I will be putting in another 24s, since like you I have them.
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Im reading. Just got the charger today but my luck i was tearing down my master brake cylinder. Rear pressure was out. I think the stupid cup orange is bad. Waiting to see if golf cart shop has one and the price. Mean while I’m looking at conversions. Maybe !988 Mazda b2200 looks close.
have been away from the forum for a while . nice to see so many people converting to lithium . its been about 2 years now since I did the leaf conversion , have had no problems with it or any of the components . (does remind me that I need to check cell voltage its been at least 6 months and I don’t use a bms) .
just want to mention something again to help out .
the leaf and volt cells hold all their capacity between 3.5v and 4.1v . you can take them from 3.0v to 4.2v but you don’t get much more range and it is hard on the cells .
20s is the easiest configuration charged to 4.1v/cell =84v .
21s is optimum , charged to 4.095 v/cell =86v total (* this is controller high voltage cutoff on a t4)
22s -24s well be max range and speed but well require a voltage spoof to work . Dave (inwo)is your man here.
don’t try to put in 22s or 24s and only charge to 86v total , you wont have enough voltage in each cell and will a low range .
hope this infor helps
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Did you do the lift yourself or have it done by someone? I’m looking at doing one on my 2005 EL.
I cut the shocks mounts off myself and just flipped them over and reinstalled them. Works great so far. We’ll see how much the cart rises when I take out the lithium Tuesday. I’ll send a before and after. But first I need to replace my brake master cylinder. Rear pressure went out. All it seems to need is new cup o-rings but I have to find them.
Troy Hoggard’s iPhone
I built it myself. Lowered the whole rear suspension and added airshocks. The front cradle I extended in the rear and cut the front and lowered. All the brake lines would reach with a 6" lift, also extended steering shaft. Everthing is bolted so can remove easy. I have the goldwing airshocks in front but will need to find a springover since they give to much in the curves especially if you have someone heavy as a passenger, but they ride 100% better than stock.
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Experimented with the Magic Magnet today and definitely goes faster. Without it, going downhill it will start to regen with the MM it just keeps going. I have left it plugged in now 
Maybe turn it down so it doesn’t over speed.
Or do you have it set so speedometer is correct?
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I have it set on kilometers but haven’t verified it is true speed just feels about right.
It can be changed to limit speed where you want, if you worry it’s too fast for motor.
I can email you Rodney’s rpm calculator or make you a tach.
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What is the redline on the 5hp GE motor?
I’m thinking Rodney says 5000. Motor is marked much less, but they survive at 5000.
Hope he corrects me.
I have your email. Darren?
I’ll forward the calculator.
Sent