Motor temp Light

I will give this a shot when I get home. I test connectors much tighter than this big boy on the regular but certainly never know someone’s skill level. You guys are rockstars and I greatly appreciate the help!

Talking with @LithiumGods .
Any chance p21 is not making good contact with wire 21 in the 23 pin connector?
If it hasn’t been done, GE recommends cleaning with contact wash and coating plug with dielectric grease.

So I did every test possible. I checked pin fit on pin 21 and I had nice pin tension with the proper size male end. I then took it upon myself to pull the controller since that’s the only thing that made sense since I knew it was getting proper voltage from the sensor into the controller. Soon as I removed it I heard something inside rolling around. I pulled cover off and found a good amount of corrosion under the connector. :disappointed: wasn’t anticipating another large cost this soon. If anyone has a controller laying around let me know. Here’s some pics for your pleasure…

Sounds like it’s time for an AC motor upgrade…

If you stay with the GE controllers, I’m fairly certain there was a thread here just a few months back, where a couple of the guys figured out how to get a T4 to work in the 05 GEMs. That would give you a better controller that was in service for about 8 years.

Probably isn’t going to happen this weekend because it’s supposed to be like 104 here, but I might have a T4 available very soon. I just have to swap my eL over to AC drive finally.

Found the thread on T3 to T4 swaps. Kind of a long thread, but worth the read. In the end it turned out to just be simple jumper needed.

Yeah I’d prefer to find a t4 over a t3. An AC conversion isn’t the cards for me at this point. I’m going to be doing what I can with this setup for now. Cant wait to enjoy it. It’s been a rough road bringing this one back to life but will be worth it in the end. This is an awesome community and makes the experience so much better. I’m looking forwarding to adding my value to the group. I’m a pretty high level auto diagnostic guy. I work for Lexus corporate and I basically get sent out to diagnose vehicles that dealers are unable to figure out.

It still runs right?
Jump p21 around the corrosion. Nothing to lose and it will validate my theory.

I like this idea. Maybe it’ll last long enough for you to find a T4 to put in there.

But my OCD would have a tough time closing up the box and leaving all that corrosion sitting there. I’d probably take a toothbrush to it and make it worse or kill it completely.

I used a brush that we clean my kids straws with that fit in between there and cleaned it up pretty good. I don’t see a great way to jump p21 (I don’t have a ton of experience working with circuit boards.) I threw it back in to keep the car movable and still have my warning obviously.

Yeah, without a real schematic it’s pretty tough to know where to jump to another point.
With a good microscope you might be able to follow a trace over to the nearest component. In the least- it looks like every one of those pins could use a heating up and try to get some new solder flow in there.

Don’t give up and toss it tho- one of us might be gutsy enough to have a poke at it and keep it around for someone that really needs it.

Good catch. One of my standard questions for a while was ->Has it rained recently? I hate that these are out where they could get wet. The rubber flap over the top doesn’t quite do the job all the time.

This a valid swap. The T3 is a big mistake by GEM, T4 solves all the problems of the T3. I have a 2005 with a T3 that I took on as an experiment to see how much I could get out of it At present I’m up to 37 GPS on the flat. Gonna stick with it until I hit 40. Then it gets the T4