Here’s a YouTube video of one bypassed.
Ford Think Dead Computer - YouTube
@David_Illingworth i appreciate the info.
I did that several times and the computer was not very helpful in telling me what the problems were. Status code -05 and -090 would pop up but most of the time it was on -090. I never could get it to see the Start Switch signal for some reason regardless if the controller got 12V or not in pin 3 on 23 pin connector. According to all I read and can understand…getting 12V to pin 3 closes the Start circuit and enable the controller to receive the AP 5V potentiometer signal to make the thing move. It never even registered any F1 or F2 current trying to make the motor go.
I will get back to the basics again this week and read my reading using the main battery negative off 1st battery.
Also seen the YouTube video of the bypass but can’t tell what pins he is using to bypass what. I am amazed this info is not out there already and that no one has come up with a colorized real schematic either. I am sure compelled to do so after all this madness. 
Having a pretty good understanding of how the system works it is basically closing the 72V battery “key” signal (J7A P1 to P2 does this) and then also (P1 to P7 for main coil power) while needing to send 12V from P13 on J8 to P10 on J7A and also P3, P4 or P5 depending on what drive mode you want. Fairly simple to bypass but I think my controller hates me or has issues so my desired result is no wheels spinning. 
Sorry I should have spent the time to read through your responses.
Yes you should have 12 volts at pin 3 with the AP depressed. This would explain code 5 if you don’t get 12 volts. Code 9 is saying your drive mode switch is showing forward and reverse at the same time so I would address this first if you haven’t already done so.
Hey pb, what wires did you all jump out to get controller to turn on contactor? Would like to run this cart without all the bs of the cluster.
Vaughn