@Inwo my 2002 e825 is with a T1 controller and pin 1 goes to the Batt+ on the fuse. So that’s 1.2A at ~85V just for the controller but yes, a 15V drop would have to deal with 18W.
I don’t think there’s anything special or custom about my system other than it’s old. I purchased it from the 2nd owner and from what I gathered, neither was skilled in hacking and basically hired people to replace their batteries. But the current meter I have on my system does show me 4A of continuous drain and I figure that is an issue with the 12V DC-DC converter. When I figure out where it is and the power line to it, I will probably add a switch to it or add a relay or something.
@Inwo I received the package of 1N5404 diodes and they are nice and big and 4 of them dropped 2.8V at 150mA. I’m waiting on the full 88V/4.0V charge before seeing if 2.8 is going to be enough at 88V charge. 4 diodes worked and so did 3. With 4 I saw 110degrees, with 3 it was 77 degrees.
Update. Received 18v spoof, installed and no codes! Charged to full 99v and no codes!
Thank you inwo. Everything seems to be working perfectly. Will be looking into installing the resistor on contactor coil next.
Well this is great News. So far we know
T-2 will go to 86v
T-3 ??? no Info
T-4 will go to 99v (with Dave’s spoof)
T-5 will go to 99v (with Dave’s spoof)
I didn’t take the time to read all the posts my question is Does the T-4 & T-5 use the same spoof.
Actually 82.5 was the highest I could get reading at pin one. So 15v spoof got me to 97.5. I raised to 18 and now 99v (full charge with deltaQ 177 profile) is acceptable to the controller. So far, all is looking good. I only had time after receiving new spoof to install and do a few quick tests. When I get back after this weekend I’ll be able to give her a full shakedown trip from full charge to my planned low voltage cutoff (84v).
So far absolutely loving this volt lithium conversion.
Now That mines running right, I just need one more 12s pack to replace the one I smoked to do my buddy’s cart. Can’t wait to see what a high speed blue motor will do with this conversion. I’m seeing 36-38 mph on stock controller and 5hp motor. Would love to do 40+ without motor over speed.
on my T1 controller the 3 diode drop was not enough for a full 4.0V on all cells(22S). The 3 diode setup works fine with the charge ending around 3.95V but when the charger power is pulled and replaces, it’ll continue charging at ~3A and the battery BMS modules start balancing/shunting at 4.0V. I had to bleed off the energy over ~2 hours using the original headlights in parallel with the LED headlights.
I will probably make an upgrade using 8 diodes( 2 strings of 4 diodes ) just to help dissipate the heat I’ve seen with 4 diodes.
My T-4 stalls if you Stomp your foot on the Pedal at a dead stop. It throws a code and the car is dead. You have to turn the car off and then go again. It dosent like a huge a huge voltage dump? I have learned how to take off with out this happening but for beginners they need a few try’s b4 learning how not to dump the throttle. Does this happen to your High Voltage car?
Hey grant. No I’m not getting any hesitation at start. Not quite smoking the tires but close. I do stomp on it so I’m not babying along. I find I get quite a bit more range when not at full throttle all the time though. I’m still figuring out range as I haven’t had time to do a full shakedown distance run yet but all signs are pointing to 20+ miles at full throttle more if I’m easy on her. Will be happy with 15-20 real world, second car type driving, miles. Thought I’d get quite a bit more though from other reports. They must be at 25 mph with no hills though!
@Hbbill what’s your amp hour rating of your pack? My Leaf Gen 4 modules are ~112Ahr and I’ve learned from others that lithium batteries will last longer when not charged to 100% so I only charge to 4.0V per cell instead of 4.2(=100%). My pack is a 22S setup so close to yours voltage-wise. 4.0V about 10Ahr off full charge and on the low end of the discharge curve it drops off steeply at ~3.3V so I have only taken down to 3.45V which is about 10Ahr short of the 100Ahr capacity when fully charged, according to the specs. What all this means is my 2002 e825 went 22.7 miles on about 80Ahr of charge. I found my tires were low, at 20 PSI, so I aired them up to 30 PSI and immediately noticed it would hit 30 MPH on the slight up hill which used to top out at 26 MPH. I expect a decent mileage boost to the 22.7 miles I got last week.
They say 50 ah each so with 2 I should have 100. Haven’t put a meter on her to check an actual number yet. I’ll give her a good run soon and see what real world range is.
I agree, higher pressure is better for range, worse for ride. Newer cart rides better so you can raise the pressures a bit to help increase range.
Grant, went out and tried just a full stomp on the throttle and did get a 45 code, so you are probably right about the large voltage dump not being agreeable to the controller. Thats the only time I’ve seen that code. I guess I do drive tamer than I thought! Nobody has ever said that to me though!
I don’t think you have 100 Ahr there. IIRC you had 2 12S packs and put them in series(chained) to get higher voltage(24S). So you increased the voltage of the pack and the current rating stays the same( 50 Ahr ). If you have 2 of those 24S packs and put those in parallel, then you have a 100 Ah pack. We can’t use all of that either. With lead acid type you could get 50% of the rated power out without harming the battery. With Lithium, it much better but you don’t want to go passed a threshold or the chemistry can’t recombine and reduced capability is the result. Worst is the added resistance from this ‘damage’ means the battery will get hotter when charging and discharging and if there’s too much heat there’s fire.
I don’t think you want to go any less than 3.3V per cell. But if you can get the specs for the cells then you’ll know how far is safe and how far to push it when testing.
Mines a T3 and I run 96v with the spoof.
Stock motor and I max at 33mph.
I have the same stalling issue if I stomp on it too. One of the main reasons I want to try out the Alltrax controller this summer.
Just a bit of clarification. I drive fairly aggressively on a daily basis.
I’ve never seen a code 45 until I tried a “full on stomp” of the throttle pedal! Even for me, this is not regular driving style, especially with 96v underfoot! I’m loving the HP and the speed, but even I know you can’t always have it all! I don’t think any of these components would survive the unlimited potential of the fully uncorked electrical potential that a high voltage volt battery conversion could offer.
Now, if you wanted to drag race your creation???
Possibilities are endless!
Running two 12s in series then those two 24s in parallel to give 100 ah. Looking for 99v top, 84v bottom to give a full draw as per the og engineers spec =<4.15v h and >3.25 low.
I’m running 4.1v high and 3.45 low. Should be right within factory gm specs.
The longevity on those batteries will drop significantly if you charge to 4.1v . After 1 year my pack capacity dropped because of charging over 4.0v . Spoke with an engineer from Enerdale batteries that said dont charge above 4.0v . Also they hold very little capacity above 4.05v so charging higher does you little good.
