I like it when math gets stuff done.
Nice, good to hear youāve got the other one on the way! Iād really like to test the 68 and 69 motors in my car once all my other issues are sorted. Those things arenāt exactly cheap to be shipping back and forth though.
If you get ambitious, Iāll share my ideas for reducing field current.
The first thing needed is a Gem that might benefit.
My cars are working fine.
Vic mentioned 6,500 RPMs as rated max. Iāve seen 7,000 shown as the absolute max.
The GEM controller does seem to allow around 26 MPH down a hill or about +4%
Dip Switch #1
16/14 = 1.14286
1.14286 x 25 = 28.57 MPH
28.57 x 1.04 = 29.71 MPH
Dip switch #2
16/13 = 1.23077
1.23077 x 25 = 30.77 MPH
30.77 x 1.04 = 32.00 MPH
Iāll probably just use dip switch #1. I donāt think it is worth pushing to the red line for 2.2 MPH difference.
At the point of max speed does the controller intervene with additional regen to help slow the car or does it just cut power and let friction do the work?
It cuts voltage and then if it still is going to fast it will plug brake .
Keeping up to dateā¦ the ES-132-69 version of the D&D motor arrived today. I donāt think I will have time to install until Sunday but I will report back on that.
The GEM actually spent the day today at my mechanic who said everyone is very interested in the GEM having never seen one (especially with all the upgrades) and he seemed to enjoy the unique challenge.
Installed the following all from NEV Accessories:
- 8 front bushings on the front end that were shot
- Premium brakes
- Heavy duty bearings and seals
- Steering rack boots
- New tires mounted and balanced with shorter stems that will work with my hub caps.
- Fixed the alignment
- 4 new shocks (purchased through their eBay listing because I had a 13% bonus bucks offer and gift cards)
A little bit of a problem with the shocks thoughā¦ There appears to be an error in the listing on eBay and their site. The ones for the rear state that they fit 1999-2012 rear for all passenger & utility models. Well, not my 2011 eL XD! The rear end is jacked up about 2" too high on the lowest default setting. It looks kind of ridiculous.
Actually, the ones listed for the front 2005-2012 would appear to be what I need for the rear also as they are about 2" shorter. I have a hard time believing I am the first guy to buy shocks from them for an eL XD.
Everything else worked and the thing rides like a dream but I know who I will be calling Monday at 9:00 am mountain standard time. 
Anyone else ever have this issue?
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@GEMRIX any updates on the new āspeedā motor? Iām really interested to understand the differences between the two as I will be ordering one, just not sure which yet.
I ended up getting it installed on Wednesday and have had some time to test drive it since.
About the ES-132-69 motor, I would say that it meets my expectations where the 68 did not (for my specific gear ratio and local terrain). By comparison, it has slightly stronger acceleration and adds at least 2-3 MPH on grades. Both motors are heavy and very well built. I keep noticing the smoother deceleration when I let off the pedal too.
Donāt expect a miracle especially versus a stock 7.0 motor but this is a slight improvement nonetheless. I would trust it over the stock motor for build quality and ability to tolerate higher RPMs and higher temperatures for sure. With my 14.76:1 gears it may well be the best option. I will definitely keep mine under 30 MPH. Currently I am using the magic magnet but I did get a programmer cable and software from @Inwo. I will be tinkering with that for speed and spedo correction and I am intrigued about the whole field current thing too.
If you had 12.44 or 10.35 gears, obviously you could go for more speed at a given RPM. The 68 motor may be the better choice in this case because it is supposed to use less power. Vic claims many satisfied installs with the 68. Actually, good advice may be to talk to Vic or Jeff or both to get consensus.
I have not tested the 69 for range yet because I am still waiting on my plate from PENDOT.
All that said, the 14.76 gears are a special case. For most other gear ratios I have come to believe that voltage is still the biggest factor and the best way to tweak overall performance (not just top speed) as @grantwest and @Inwo have said many times.
I almost wish I had the chance to compare with a regular R4F version too but I am happy with the ES-13
2-69 so far.
Iām trying to decide what is better, to use a magic magnet or to reprogram the controller. My last motor had a custom magnet that made it go faster so I need to find a way to make it faster and drive smoother. Any suggestions.
Thanks
The magic magnet and programming do similar things for most . There is a misconception that you can reprogram for more range or performance . What can actually be done is FOOL your controller so you can go faster (same as the magic magnet), you can ramp up regeneration . you can recurve your motor torque for more top speed power but less low speed acceleration , control turf speed . you can control how fast or slow you want full power to go to the motor when you hit the gas ( 1 sec, 1.1sec , etc) you cant raise power but you can lower it . so if these are not things you desire , just us a MM for less cost and simplicity .
How much does the programmer cost? It would be nice to set the acceleration. I seem to spin the tires everytime I pull out.
Thanks for the update. In my case in have an E6 with 28s LiFePo4 so Iāve got the lighter weight and high voltage covered. The car has the 12.44 transmission in it now but I have a 10.35 that I am going to swap in this week. Currently in stock tires but shopping for a new set. Trying to find the right balance between height, weight and appearance. It sounds like I should give the 69 a try.
I believe I have the 12.44 gears
21" tires
Stock 7hp motor
100 volt batteries
and Iām also woried about going over the 4100 RPM.
Have you seen any other 10.35 out there?
Let me know how it goes with the new gearing.
I just learned about the different available gear ratios during my upgrade project. So I only know mine.
My prior GEM was also a 2011 but it was an eL by Polaris. My current GEM is actually only a few months older but it is a Chrysler eL XD.
I mentioned using the GEM for hayrides earlier on. Here is the resultā¦ āHaylessā High Tech Hayrides
I just finished building this hayride trailer for the GEM last week and it was a smash hit at our church picnic this past Sunday
Trailer was full so my son and youngest daughter co-piloted this run.
My oldest daughter front right explained the whole rig to the other kids.
It was a huge success! I did kind of a regular hayride around the grounds at about 5 mph and ended with a burst up to about 20 mph across the parking lot at the end. The GEM with the battery upgrade and D&D motor made for exciting acceleration.
The smiles, cheers, and hands in the air made all the work totally worth it.
See it in actionā¦ sorry did not get video of the speed burst.
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Keen observers may also notice a few other details that I had not posted about prior to this. I I got a set of vintage look full moon stainless steel hubcaps and new tires. I also refinished and installed a heavy duty front bumper.
Really, I think the only thing that I have not installed is the frosted lens cover on the LED channel. Itās probably less than an hour job but I guess I just like looking at the pixels. The GEM is going to be in a parade this coming weekend, so Iām sure Iāll find time to add that finishing touch. 
Iām having trouble getting solder to flow. Do you use flux on the wires or use tinned leads?
I twist the wires and fold each back, kind of creating a hook/loop. This makes a wider spot with a knot and I center the solder ring over that. Then I use a heat gun gradually rotating around the middle. It usually just suddenly liquefies and flows into the strands after 5-10 seconds. It is supposed to be a lower melting point solder in there. I hope they work out for you.