Can’t say it’s a good idea to extend leads. Make sure they are well protected and insulated. Also keep away from high current leads.
That said, if I was to do it:
I would use larger gauge wire with small fusible link by battery. Say, just one or few strand connected.
That way fire would be limited to burning the strand off if things went bad.
I’m working on a pcb that extends the lcd to 3 meters away.
Waiting for Grant to test as he won’t sue me if it goes up in smoke.
Be glad to furnish pcbs to a capable technician. Or anyone who has the skills to put it together, and not hold me responsible.
Ask him about my idea of extending with shielded 25c printer cable.
I’d like to get some out there to test, but don’t want to cause myself trouble.(or you)
“No good deed ever goes unpunished”
I’ve got my Leaf lithium batteries mounted in the front of my e2 and am ready to have my Zivan charger algorithm programed. I’ve already got Dave’s opinion, but would like to see if anyone else has a preference. I’m using 11 modules and a BMS. The tech from Zivan suggested 517a, below is the table and graph that he sent me.
Thanks for the graph. Evidently the volts and current pots in the Zivan chargers can be controlled live w an insulated screwdriver. But, the curves still need to be controlled by the software. I WOULD NOT WORRY about shortening bms wires. I worry about lengthening ie i went larger ie 22 gauge to 18 gauge to lengthen…i have Leaf cells under my seat and in front of my 2 seater. Also thicker wire is stronger and better insulated so safer…at least the wire i got…and i am protecting w wiring looms at least the long runs from under seat
What is the max current, volt, amps, watts or whatever that flows thru those 22 gauge wires that come with the Blue BMS? The Leaf BMS used anorexic 22 or even 24 gauge wires but the computer/bms was inside the Leaf battery pack steel fortress…so not a long run.
Don’t want to burn up my Gem Car after putting so much work into it. But, you were right; ride is ok without
all those Trojans…and the stock motor really likes it and runs better even w taller wheels/tires. I downloaded a speedometer app so I can see the difference; stock speedo is about 7mph off with my taller wheels and tires.
1.2 amps peak.
There is more to it than that though. Cell voltage is measured thru bms leads.
An adjustable MM can correct speedometer, and or reprogramming controller to match gear ratio and tire size.
Change speedometer to display kph, then adjust MM to read 0-40 correctly in mph.
By the way the Magic Magnet seems to help. My regen is less aggressive when
I slow down. And my speed seemed to go up by about 5mph. I’d love to see if
there is a way to recalibrate the Gem speedometer so it can read
accurately. If not I’ll just have to buy an additional speedometer so I
don’t have to use an app.
The MM should help with that.
Set your speedometer to kph. Tell me the MM setting. 1 + 3 or such. Or picture.
Then see what the speedometer error is.
I can suggest a different setting.
