@ScottyD tells me it can be normal. Need spoof on controller for pod to boot.
Not always as someone proved me wrong.
High current spoof requires one more component, unless you are lucky enough to find an old stock 20 watt zener.
Thanks everyone for the advice. I thinking the best bet may be to only charge the batteries to 81.5V.
It would be interesting to check what that pod actually pulls. Iâll have to look now to see what it actually controls.
I just use duplicate terminals so removing the spoof is easy and I heat shrink them. I loop the extra wire around and tape it all back up. Iâm running 96 volts and have not needed a spoof for the cluster. Everything works as it should.
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David- Has your cluster been modded by the Cluster Guy? (now powered by a little dedicated remote DC Converter cube?)
Yes, mine has but another one I did does not. They all have a dc/dc converter. The cluster guy just bypasses the internal converter and hooks up a cheap external converter to move the heat out of the cluster.
I figured as much. I was questioning the specs on the internal converter not being able to handle. If you say it might get some feed from the controller after it boots then we can do that first.
Thats a good idea. I start looking around to see what i can find. It also sounds like a great excuse for me to take a trip to Skycraft Surplus
3 wire version connects the hv and 12v sustems together. Need 4 wire isolated converter. For sure in a Think as they monitor ground faults. Iirc
Deleted my above post as it was an incorrect application.
I"m thinking no just based on the placement of the (-) leads.
yes, correct wires, but that example only goes to 80v.
- Input Voltage: 72V nominal; Input range: 70V to 80V
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These might work?
or
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I ordered both. I have bad luck with things arriving DOA.
Worst case one doesnât work and back it goes to amazon. Best case i have a spare.
Now I just to find out how to wire it to the cluster 
I installed the spoof and it seems to be doing its job because after installation the cluster battery meter showed less than full for the first time since switching to LifePo4. At this time voltage was about 81V.
The car ran well and as you mentioned after about a 10 mins ride the spoof didnât heat up at all.
I then charged to 87.6V and Iâm back to the same issue; when I flip the main switch, the 2nd 72/12dc converter works, but the cluster doesnât flash like it normally does when I flip the switch. âŚand when I turn the key the solenoid clicks though the cluster doesnât turn on and the car wonât move, headlights turn signals etc donât work.
I drained the batteries down to 85V and Iâm experiencing the same issue as above.
My next step is to climb under the cart and test the voltage after the spoof to make sure Iâm below 81.5V.
Iâm also open to any other ideas/testing you or others may have.
I do have a second cluster which may be good or may not be good I got it when I purchased the car 8 years ago. I may try switching the cluster out to see if it makes a difference.
I would definitely check to see what the voltage is after the spoof.
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Checked the voltage after the spoof and it was below 81.5V though the car still wouldnât go.
I drained the battery, checking every so often to see if it would work.
By the time I got down to 82V and it wasnât working, I decided to walk away for a while.
This afternoon I decided to try the other cluster and it worked!
It blinked the first time I flipped the switch.
I charged the battery to 87.6V and the car works.
I think it was the cluster the whole time which is really odd as I never had an issue until I switched to LifePo4.
I havenât tried bypassing the spoof though seeing itâs working I might just leave well enough alone.
Maybe as part of the rebuild, they reduced the high voltage cut-off?
âŚthough itâs been working for 6 years with 6 12v gel batteries so I donât know.