Ford Think Voltage Spoof Installation Fuse 3?

@ScottyD tells me it can be normal. Need spoof on controller for pod to boot.
Not always as someone proved me wrong.
High current spoof requires one more component, unless you are lucky enough to find an old stock 20 watt zener.

Thanks everyone for the advice. I thinking the best bet may be to only charge the batteries to 81.5V.

It would be interesting to check what that pod actually pulls. I’ll have to look now to see what it actually controls.

I just use duplicate terminals so removing the spoof is easy and I heat shrink them. I loop the extra wire around and tape it all back up. I’m running 96 volts and have not needed a spoof for the cluster. Everything works as it should.

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David- Has your cluster been modded by the Cluster Guy? (now powered by a little dedicated remote DC Converter cube?)

Yes, mine has but another one I did does not. They all have a dc/dc converter. The cluster guy just bypasses the internal converter and hooks up a cheap external converter to move the heat out of the cluster.

Maybe he used a lower voltage dc/dc converter, 80v max maybe? on your @mitsured

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I figured as much. I was questioning the specs on the internal converter not being able to handle. If you say it might get some feed from the controller after it boots then we can do that first.

@MikeKC,

Thats a good idea. I start looking around to see what i can find. It also sounds like a great excuse for me to take a trip to Skycraft Surplus

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3 wire version connects the hv and 12v sustems together. Need 4 wire isolated converter. For sure in a Think as they monitor ground faults. Iirc

Deleted my above post as it was an incorrect application.

@Inwo

So something like this?

I"m thinking no just based on the placement of the (-) leads.

yes, correct wires, but that example only goes to 80v.

  • Input Voltage: 72V nominal; Input range: 70V to 80V
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@MikeKC,

It looks like this one might fill in all the blanks.
What do you think?

These might work?

or

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Thank you @MikeKC and @Inwo

I ordered both. I have bad luck with things arriving DOA.
Worst case one doesn’t work and back it goes to amazon. Best case i have a spare.

Now I just to find out how to wire it to the cluster :slight_smile:

@David_Illingworth,

I installed the spoof and it seems to be doing its job because after installation the cluster battery meter showed less than full for the first time since switching to LifePo4. At this time voltage was about 81V.

The car ran well and as you mentioned after about a 10 mins ride the spoof didn’t heat up at all.

I then charged to 87.6V and I’m back to the same issue; when I flip the main switch, the 2nd 72/12dc converter works, but the cluster doesn’t flash like it normally does when I flip the switch. …and when I turn the key the solenoid clicks though the cluster doesn’t turn on and the car won’t move, headlights turn signals etc don’t work.
I drained the batteries down to 85V and I’m experiencing the same issue as above.

My next step is to climb under the cart and test the voltage after the spoof to make sure I’m below 81.5V.

I’m also open to any other ideas/testing you or others may have.

I do have a second cluster which may be good or may not be good I got it when I purchased the car 8 years ago. I may try switching the cluster out to see if it makes a difference.

I would definitely check to see what the voltage is after the spoof.

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