It turned out great. I have a set of those lights coming. I love the halo look and being brighter than the stock ones is a plus. I’m still trying to figure out my steering wheel. I ordered a 1" adapter that’s meant to go from a three bolt to a six bolt steering wheel. My hope is to cut the center out of my old steering wheel and either bolt or weld the adapter to it so the horn and turn signal cancel will work properly. If it doesn’t work out I’ll just do the same as you.
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Thanks for the love! The halos really brought the car to life with a really cool look. I almost took the approach you’re taking with the steering wheel but my expertise is in electrical not welding! Haha hopefully you get it but you have a backup plan that’s stamped so it’s a win win for ya.
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In the pic you can see how bright the headlights are now. Please excuse the bleach bottle. Also I have one under the dash led lighting for night rides to keep the cabin nice and viable. I’ll list the part link and a pic showing where I installed. The light is wired up two ways 1.) To come on when headlights come on 2.) On a separate switch so I can use whenever I feel. On option one a NC 5 pin relay is needed.
LED Ambient Light
Check this out at Amazon.com
Oznium Brightest Light Bolt -… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ADHUY2S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
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I meant to ask you where did you get your 96v batteries from? Is it plug and play? What’s the total cost? Do I need a new charger?
Lights look great. Are there any other options people have found work well (compared to the factory which barely light the road)? Thanks
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Those lights I installed and good set of fogs work great. LED is the way to go especially for the price.
Went with this brake light as well. Plug and play!
Check this out at Amazon.com
BA-BOLING Smoke Housing Led 3rd… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085HQRZMT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
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I used Chevy Spark batteries which are the same as Chevy Volt batteries. Yes I had to buy a new charger and the batteries needed modifying to work. I probably had under $2500 converting it to lithium Chevy Spark / Volt Conversion
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Looks so much better than that Ford steering wheel! You did a great job on the custom work. Happy for you! I sent you a message as well please check that out.
Dave, did you have to cut/weld anything to get the adaptor to fit for the steering wheel? Could you list the parts list for the steering wheel change.Thanks. Ray L.
I had to cut the center of the original steering wheel out and than a little grinding to get it smooth. Only thing you need is an adapter, steering wheel, longer bolt, washer, paint and three small welds. You have to center the old hub and adapter before welding. The old hub has a little tit that’s the top so it makes it easy. I used a long bolt and nut to hold the two together until I had it welded. Everything works as it should (horn and turn signal cancel)
I’m hopeful you can answer my question about the “best” way to wire in an accessory like a radio.
First, can you tell me what each of the colored wires (Black/Red/Green/Yellow) on the Key Switch do? I assume that one is for Forward, one is for Reverse, one is for Turf, and one is always Hot, but which is which? Also, does the Hot wire already have 12V that’s been converted down from 72V (from the six 12V batteries)? If so, what component in the vehicle did that reduction and how can I find it?
Would it make sense for me to splice into that Hot wire to power that radio I mentioned? Or, do I need to connect straight to the batteries (or some other place, like coming out of the component that did the 12V reduction)?
And, where can I find a wire that is Hot only when the vehicle’s ignition is on so that my radio will turn off when the vehicle is off?
Bottom line is what would be the “best” way to wire in a radio?
Thank you so much.
White/orange wire is drive
White/yellow wire is reverse
White/violet wire is turf
Last wire is 12 volt signal
For a radio I would wire from the second dc/dc converter as it only runs the power point. Of course you want to make sure they are both working properly first as they are known to go bad. If they’re bad I would just replace the charger with a new updated charger that has a built-in dc/dc converter to run all your 12 volt systems. www.evdrives.com sell the charger for $275 shipped. You can then sell your old charger on ebay and recoup some money.
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Two quick questions:
(1) To remove the front fascia, do you need to remove the inside console? (How did you access the bolts holding on the front fascia?)
(2) Are the factory headlights adjustable? Mine appear to be aimed too high?
Thanks
You have to remove the dash to gain access to the front fascia bolts. Dash comes out easy enough.
Headlights are adjustable. They have a screw on the back top of them.
If you need the manual send me your email and I will send it to you.
I ended up using a Flashpower 6167B adaptor. I had to file down the hex middle to get it to fit lower on the steering column. Used a couple of washers and then lock tite on the threads of the original bolt that held the old steering wheel on. The only thing that does not work is the self cancelling turn signals. I wired the horn button on the new steering wheel to the two contact points on the turn signal, wiper and high beam piece. Used a NRG steering wheel as above - Part # ST-009R ordered off amazon. Turned out very well
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I’m so happy everyone is getting there new steering wheels installed! Any pics?
Just added front LED turn signals and they look and work fantastic. Bought them from superbrightleds.com because they have a lifetime warranty. Part number PTC-AHB17 and pigtails PL-3S. The factory ones are just turn signals but these include running lights so I wired them to the headlights to add the running lights. These are really bright and they are clear but when energized they turn yellow. If you’re going to do this the black wire goes to the red wire on the headlight harness. The red wire goes to the white wire and the white wire goes to the red wire for the turn signals.
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Here are some pics of my steering wheel install. I think I linked to the actual parts up above in this thread, but basically you can go to Amazon and get a hub and wheel for something like $70. The hub you want will have the hexagonal interior, not the splined (little gear teeth) interior.
After removing the stock steering wheel (pull off the cover and unbolt with 15mm socket), you install the replacement hub. As you can see in these pics, the only problem with the hub is that it wants to line up the steering wheel about 10 degrees to the left. This is easily fixed by drilling six new holes in the steering wheel that are 10 degrees or so to the right and attaching through those instead.
This is not as hard as it sounds! All you need to do is position the wheel so that it’s straight, and mark on the steering wheel aluminum where one reference hole is from the hub. Then, take the center cover plate and use as it as a template to mark the rest of the holes. The holes can be drilled with a household drill, this is not a precision part and as you can see, mine were a bit oversize to give me some adjustment room. You may find it helpful to use a center punch to set the center of each hole, so that your drill bit doesn’t wander. The steering wheel center aluminum is pretty soft, very easy to drill by hand.
And that’s it! attach the wheel and cover to the hub and you’re done. Note that the horn won’t work, but you’ll free up some space inside the Think and for the money this feels like a good tradeoff to me. You may need to yank a bit on the old wheel to dislodge it, and you’ll want to measure 2-3 times to be dead sure you have your template lined up right and centered in position before drilling holes, but this takes maybe an hour. And at worst, if you screw up the wheel, a new one is $20.
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