I can build you one, won’t be today tho as I am headed to the Chiefs game.
I can get it out tomorrow. PM me your address or I can send it to Ernie.
No, a spoof will have no ill effects on later changes.
I can build you one, won’t be today tho as I am headed to the Chiefs game.
I can get it out tomorrow. PM me your address or I can send it to Ernie.
No, a spoof will have no ill effects on later changes.
David,
What motor are you running and how do you think your set up would manage on a very hilly area?
I have the D&D motor. Going over the bridges over the inter coastal I lose 2-3 mph. That’s as steep as it gets around here.
@David_Illingworth tells me that he has cars, using clusterguy parts, running on 96v.
This is contrary to clusterguy advice, but can’t argue with success.
Be aware that cluster will not boot until controller is spoofed, and informing clusterguy of hv may void his warrantee.
David did not mention the original cluster threshold limit.
Haha, yeah Ernie and I have hills routinely in the area of 4-6 degrees sustained incline. The d1 and 4hp stock would drop from 29 on the flat to 16 on the hill up to my house. So I would pull over as the traffic doing 35 would approach from behind.
It’s the hills that are killing me.
This is confusing to me as the cluster seems to boot right up now with the 90.6 v applied when I turn the key. I wonder what the difference is?
The cluster may be booting but I bet the Controller is erroring out with a -16.
Do you know the steps to view the trouble codes?
I don’t. Also, I don’t think my reset button or cluster are fully functioning.
Was the car working before this battery swap?
And what do you mean here?
I don’t think my reset button or cluster are fully functioning.
To retrieve DTCs, set the park brake and perform the following:
The DTC(s) and the odometer reading at which each DTC was set, along with the service required (wrench) indicator, are the only items displayed when the instrument cluster gauge is in Retrieving and Clearing DTCs mode.
Car was running it I was starting to have an issue where the contractor would not engage randomly while driving. I would turn it off and on again and then it would work fine. That happened three times over a few weeks. On top of that my old batteries had been limping along for some time and eventually the charger wouldn’t charge them due to the voltage being too low. I individually charged them but the weren’t charging high enough and I kept getting the two red blinks on the delta Q.
As far as the reset and cluster. The odo and Speedo have never functioned since I have owned it. That may be as simple as the sensor on the motor, I don’t know. The battery, wrench, hazard, seat belt and brake indicators do seem to work fine. I guess I don’t really know if the select reset button was functioning. Does it do anything if you press it while normal driving?
It sounds like you really need to add a handheld meter into your toolbox and a few quick lessons on what to do with it.
Speedo - It depends on what your definition of non-functioning is.
Speed digit Appears in the center but just displays a big 0 when you are driving. The ODO might have a few numbers across the bottom but it never changes. ← This might be a speed sensor issue but I doubt it. I have seen some cars on T1/T2 controllers that don’t seem to care if there is a sensor or not, but I doubt your car will drive without a speed signal to the controller. It might be a bad serial data link between the cluster and controller.
Not appearing at all? ← This would probably be a cluster problem
I have meter and am moderately capable with it.
Shows 0 on the Speedo and has been on 304 on the odo forever.
Probably time to get the wiring diagrams and start pinning things out.
Select/Reset button - Did you try the code retrieval instructions listed above?
A short press of the button usually toggles between the ODO and Trip modes when in Drive or Turf mode.
I have never tried the code retrieval. I have the dash and cluster disconnected and removed as I am taking the opportunity to paint all my fenders and dash panel
I will try to reconnect the reset button and ignition switch to attempt the retrieval tonight after work
If cluster damaged and unable to communicate with the controller, the only other way to check error codes is to use sentry software and jack into the controller directly. I believe it logs the last 20(?) error codes that the controller experiences.
This is a bit awkward to do this while out in the field, but meant as more of a shop diagnostic event.
Ok so I just reassembled what I needed to check it out. The reset button doesn’t function but the cluster seems to. I used a jumper on the back of the cluster to close the loop and pull the codes. You were correct, 16. Is that an over voltage condition?
Yes. Needs a simple spoof on Pin1 at the controller.
Given your present voltage (90?) you need to drop maybe 5v?
Then, when you ramp up the charger you need to change your spoof to keep P1 below 86v.
@MikeKC is sending a 10-12v spoof today, so I will wire that in and see how it goes once it arrives
Is that code preventing the contactor solenoid from functioning (no click) as well?