I’m seeing throughout the internet both negative and positive comments regarding the Duracell SLI31MDC batteries in the E825 (72V). Can anyone confirm that they’ve had success with these? They are $120 at Batteries Plus and I really cannot afford the $300+ Trojans. I understand they have a shorter lifespan. The salesman said they will allow full returns up to 14 days but I’d really like to hear from those that know first hand or from an automotive (electrical) mechanic before I go through the hassle of hauling home 6 of these. If these will work, what processes must be completed to make sure they’re safely configured to charge with the built in factory charger? Also looking at the 31DCM from another thread on this forum. Thoughts, suggestions, tips?
What number? Are you sure they are golf cart batteries?
Agm or flooded?
The flooded I see online are over $250 and 12m warranty.
Oldhousboater has suggestion for low cost batteries.
Sorry, just updated first post with the links I am referring to. I’ve read quite a few posts from Oldhouseboater. He seems very knowledgable. I am continuing to read and analyze the best route to take.
As a side note, I’ve seen posts saying this will work and others that it won’t work. We only have a single key and it’s very temperamental at times. Has anyone replaced with a non OEM switch and been successful?
I installed one of these as a replacement, you have to cut a little of the plastic behind the column to make it fit but nothing seen after everything is put back together.
I’m running the Duracell SLI 31MDC’s it’s been about 5 months now. Zero issues.
$700 OTD for all 6 batteries @ Batteries plus. (They give you a 10-15% off industrial discount for buying 6) Life expectancy was 3 years. 1 year warranty.
I got quoted just over $1450 for Trojans. (Cheapest I could find anywhere). Max life expectancy was 5 years. Also a 1 year warranty.
So for the total of $1400-$1500 you can have 6 years with Duracell (2 sets) or 5 years with one set of Trojans.
I’ve have heard excellent things about group 31 Crown batteries as well. Batteries plus sell them too. They were like $950 OTD. I seriously debated them and will probably buy them next time. Guy said they last as long as Trojans. They were a few lbs heavier than the Duracell’s.
Edit: I’m running in a 2001 - 4 seater with a upgraded Zivan charger.
However, I do not have the “upgrade” Zivan NG1 with the charging type dial. My understanding is there is no way to manually change the settings as it’s a controller board replacement not a jumper or similar fix.
Since I’m a cheapo, should I purchase a trickle charger (or 6) and charge all 6 batteries separately or is there a cheap generic Zivan replacement folks are using now that has the same type of plugs so there is no having to rewire things? The DeltaQ is still ~$500. In 2019, it’s hard to believe that battery and charger technology has remained the same for decades along with their high price tags.
I’m not sure what the issue is here. Those are flooded lead acid batteries, which is the default battery type for the zivan.
Those are good batteries, I have the same ones just re-branded by NAPA auto. They can take a surprising amount of abuse. Make sure you don’t get handed the 31DCMJ instead. The 31DCM is an EastPenn Deka battery, made in the US w/ virgin lead. the 31DCMJ is a Johnson Controls (Interstate) battery made in Mexico with cheaper components.
I agree I think Rodney has the most experience with the entry-level flooded lead acid batteries most of us have moved on to the lithium and don’t bother comparing flooded with acid batteries. Rodney does lots of Buy/Sell/fixup Gems so he knows first hand what Entrey level battery’s work good. I thought I remember him using the ones you asked about
I appear to be thoroughly confused myself then. I thought the original Zivan NG1 (no micro upgrade) was only for the gel batteries ($300+ Trojan) and that it had to be sent in for an upgrade in order to support charging flooded.
Just got the new batteries installed. When I turn on the disconnect and the key, I get power, lights, wipers but a error code 4. I can hear the little micro switch in the hand brake working. I then tried to plug in AC power to charge and I get an audible sound, yellow light followed by red blinking light and loud beep. Checked each battery between 12.3 and 12.6.
The connector on the opposite end of the three green wires on the parking break was connected upside down. That was causing the code 4 and also cleared the charging error with the red blinking audible led.
After a 5 mile ride, looks like all that’s left is to adjust the headlights and replace the rear left bulb. We’ll see how the first charge goes, was at 72% at the end if the night.
Thank you everyone for all the helpful suggestions and patience with a very electrically challenged person.
I bought a 2007 Gem 4 with these Duracell batteries already installed about 2 years ago and they were prob a year old. I have the Delta Q charger and I have no idea what setting its on, Im going to check today. From what I can gather, the best Delta Q profile for these Duravells is profile 1.
That being said, I was ignorant about battery care and all the batteries got low on water. I also charged them every time I pulled it back in the garage creating needless “cycles”. I drive the GEM 2 miles round trip to work daily. When I first got it, I prob had 10 miles of range easy. Now it won’t go 2 miles. (the good thing is, it seems to have about 2 more miles of range in turtle mode so I can always limp home) Im currently running the batteries don to nothing because they all test reasonably well when fully charged (pic of test results below) to see if I can reset the “memory” and get enough to get back and forth to work daily. If not, I will ABSOLUTELY put Duracells back in and take care of them this time. The price can’t be beat and I got 3 years of reliable use out of them and treated them like red headed step kids.
You will find that most FLA battery’s will test fine after a full charge. It’s the moment you step on that gas and create a load is when you will fully find out your battery’s strength.
Very common for users here on the Fourm to report “ Battery’s are in great condition” only to the. Say It will only go 100 yards and then is dead. That’s classic bad battery’s.
My advice is your not flipping the car get Gell or AGM battery’s for the No Maintace factor alone. It only takes 1 time to charge your battery’s with low fluid level and damage can happen.
Dvms don’t put any load on the battery, as Grant said, this will give a good reading to start, then falls flat. Proper battery test is a 12 second test with a 100amp load tester. Auto parts stores have them to check customer batteries.
Deka gel or agm batteries are good. Trojan are great but astronomically priced. Crown are meh. Interstate are junk. Most Duracell are made by deka. The counter sales guy can check. You want group 31 size batteries.
I have always had great luck with the Deka AGM Battery. Deka is the Brand name but you can find the exact same battery in a Private name like NAPA. They use the exact battery DEKA throws a sticker on.
It’s a Grey Battery that’s Sealed.
I buy the exact same battery as a Deka and it says XD on it. It’s a No Name battery label but the battery is the same.
They can get you for $20O if you don’t have cores so $1500 out the door for a set of AGMs is fair.
Buy them locally and save money on shipping. Others will chime in with part numbers or a source in your Aera if you let us know where your at.
I just san the Duracells completely dry to “relearn” them after running them low on water by negligence. It worked. I just drove 4 miles and they are still going. I don’t need new batteries…yet. When I put the load charger on them it showed 100% instead of 70 after a full charge.
