The ignition switch was bad?
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Still have the code 11 popping up?
I could see how if the key switch momentatily opened and closed again real quick while driving (maybe on a bump?) the controller would reboot and see a pedal down on power up and throw a -11.
A driver would interpret that the code 11 killed the car and not even know there was a power drop.
What do you have on your key ring?
What causes all of these key failures?
- Cheap switch?
- 1.2 million cycles on a 15 year old car?
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The code is no longer popping up.
I called LithiumGods after I ran through all the testing i could think of. He goes “really i would start with the ignition switch again if not it has to be a lose wire like many here have said. Think about it, if your switch is bad, it can be powering off your system and then it would give the result of what you are experiencing. Its the same thign thats happening as if you turned the key off (parking brake down, no power, solid beep).” So i went back tested it again and it was reading no continuity through the voltmeter so the issue was intermittent with the ign switch.
I have two things on my key ring, one for my car alarm and an airtag. I think back to past times with older GMs and how hey key sets would eventually damage the ignition or tumbler.
Thank you all for all the help!!! I sincerely mean that!
it is a newer switch as well (the Napa one)
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Great you tracked it down. I don’t remember if I’d documented physically holding the key switch into position to test that theory when I was getting 12V converter glitching from loose input power connectors. There some great GEM experts here and appreciate how you went about handling requests for data and things to try. Believe me, it doesn’t always go this way. Happy GEM driving.
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