I just got my digital volt meter. My question is how do I hook it up. I was going to hook it up to the key switch but where on the key switch do I connect it? The I am guessing the black wire has to be run to the battery itself? Do I need to buy extra wire?
I hope you’ve got your voltmeter working now. If not,you need to determine when you want it to work. I’m guessing since you mentioned the key switch that is where you will wire it. That’s what I’d do. Not familiar with the wiring on your buggy. I’d ;suggest you probe around with a voltmeter…oh wait…that’s what you have…probe around the wires on the key switch to figger out which wires are hot with the key in the on/run position and wire it there. Should be an easy task. Decide where you want it mounted and run two wires from that location to the key switch harness and hook them to the 2 wires you have found the proper voltage on. Wish I had a diagram and could point you to the right wires but that is the fun in doing it yourself. Good luck on the project and also in your quest for more info on the R/T issues…I’m working on a Hunter 4x4 and am having problems finding info as well. If I run across anything that will help you I’ll pass it along…don’t give up. Your speed issue could end up being a loose/broken/intermittent wire or connection.
Take care and much luck to you,
Mike
Oh Yeah…don’t rely on chassis ground as you would on an auto/truck. Most I’ve saw of these require a separate ground for each accessory device. You may end up connecting the meter to where the power inputs to your converter…
If it’s a 2 wire you can hook it to the plus and minus leads from the battery pack for the most accurate reading. Yes it’s on 100% (this is good)
If its a 3 wire meter 1 wire will have to go to + 12 volts (red I believe) - this provides power to the display
You should have gotten a diagram with it. If not look on the site you bought it from or other similar sites. There’s a bunch of them.
These puppys will last a LOT longer if you put a 12 to 5 volt Buck Regulator in the 12 volt supply side. It filters out the spikes that kill the little meters.
Rodney
[quote=OLD HOUSEBOATER;29948]If it’s a 2 wire you can hook it to the plus and minus leads from the battery pack for the most accurate reading. Yes it’s on 100% (this is good)
If its a 3 wire meter 1 wire will have to go to + 12 volts (red I believe) - this provides power to the display
You should have gotten a diagram with it. If not look on the site you bought it from or other similar sites. There’s a bunch of them.
Rodney[/quote]
Remember not to mix supplies. Controller versus converter.
I’m ready for a voltmeter on my lithium car so I can use the wireless meter on my next conversion.
Not as easy as I thought. Dropping the battery voltage down to power the meter (3 wire) wastes 5 watts.
One of your low power boost converters would work.
Don’t like connections at battery in any case.
Despite your previous bad experience, I believe the tach supply is the neatest.
I’ll make a plug-socket as used for MM, and run 12v (tach supply and neg) to voltmeter. Then use pin 2 from the key to read battery volts.
Running out of time tonight.
Test tomorrow to see if it’s safe.
Not sure what controller R&T or BB uses.
Haven’t found one with tach!
Even a Curtis sepex model.
Ac drive maybe?
Ahh.Here’s one.
file:///C:/Users/OMNI/AppData/Local/Temp/1268(06A)MANUAL.pdf
AC drives didn’t exist back then.
Thanks, I didn’t read all the info.
Just wanted to make sure he didn’t power meter from grounded converter or battery and read voltage from power battery pack.
Why is it always complicated? Thought I’d add meter in two minutes!
Dave
His app is the same as the one I used to have. If I remember i used black to frame red to 12 volt + and sense wire (think it was yellow) to 72+. Ate the meter in a month. Next time I added a Buck Regulator in series and it lived.
Rodney