Repair gaping hole in case from previous attempt. Tell it you are sorry and that you will never to that again.
Locate actual beeper element on board (using attached picture)
Place small piece of tape over beeper hole (I used a bit of foam gently tucked into hole because it was within reach). Beeper will still function, but at a more desirable level. Audio level may take some trial and error here.
Its unbelievable I didnt see that when I had it all apart the first time and at least consider that was what i was looking for.
One more random question, I notice this radio the last owner installed is tapped off the accessory circuit (12V outlet wires) rather than wired through the PSDM spades as shown in the service manual. Is there any reason this makes a difference and might draw power when key is off or is it more likely all the extra bent up wire is the issue?
I believe it. Was anything specific determined to be the problem in that case?
I have had the thing do the flash before and was able to get it out of it. I don’t recall now what was going on at the time. It is wierd how it just quit completely all of a sudden to me. Maybe that is a normal mode of failure?
@Gem_e2 - Thanks for the confirmation.
And your “handbrake not set” alert is still active too? (It’s still loud tho)
I put tape on my turn signal alert too. For a more traditional feel I might wire in a relay just so I can hear it go click-clack when it is active. It might have to be a pair of relays, But that is another topic.
Was a washer supposed to be soldered here? there is another piece on top at the other 72V connections. Any thing else to check on while I have this thing apart?
Eh, not that big of a problem. I don’t think it had a washer on the B+ post. Just make sure those screws are fairly tight(board to standoff). Especially the twins on the other side of the board. The other posts (on right of pic) are the B- (72v NEG) and that item on the board is the shunt that measures current for tracking Batt SOC.
Be careful when attaching the main cables and nuts on the outside of this box. That material is only brass and actually quite soft. Those studs have been known to twist right off.
Well now I am just making it worse I think. I got the actual beeper stuffed and what i thought was the beeper back covered by its black plastic knob. When I put it all back together (including controller top connector) I now have a constant battery level of 00 when charging. The top light on the charger itself turns red right away. When I flip the main disconnect and plug in the charger I have no display and the top light is red right away.
