OK, I think I am putting this together. This is like a hot dog down a hallway joke, right? the pic is what my meter probe left for the actual pin. That would make sense, but here is the probe on my meter. I had to direct the point towards the edge, it didnt even make contact at all going straight in. I’d almost rather go ahead and rebuild the controller than to subject it to the humiliation of all the “is it in yet?” jokes if that is where this is headed.
In all seriousness, I am pretty sure I did not stretch any female pin connections in the 23p.
A while back I had several guys I was helping with the same problem you are having now. The weird thing in common was that they both were following the troubleshooting guide found in the service manual. When it came to the part where they were supposed to measure voltage they pretty much inserted the meter probe into the hole.
What this does is over flexed the contact springs in the female side of the pin. From then on, the connection is real iffy.
If you want to try. what you need to do is carefully disassemble the 23p, pull out the pin, press the spring/wiper back into the center so it gives a little more grip and put the pin back into the connector. It’s pretty tiny work. Use good light, and magnifiers.
not that it would help you with this particular probing issue but the plastic piece between your fingers and the top should pull off and expose a much longer probe. And for things like probing from the back of connectors, I use disection teasing needles with jumper wires to the meter probe being super careful not to let any exposed metal touch anything if things are live/powered up.
You won’t find anything on 20 and 23.
I did not mean for you to probe those. I pointed them out only if you were going in and tweaking the wipers.
Since you have your meter out. You CAN check on a few more other pins.
With KeyON and drive mode switch in DH you should have B+ on P4 (ref B-). At this same time you should NOT have B+ on P5 or P6.
Is it very strange that my DH and DL are switched like that?
I find errors in docs all the time. I was more/less looking that your switch was functioning. Two at once will throw a code 09. I recall that no power at any of them will upset the controller and will cause the display to flash.
Is it possible you reversed the pin count order between front and back?
I will review this whole thread to see if there is anything I might have missed.
One alternative would be to send this controller to me and I will give it a quick look to see if it boots. Then I can plug it into my car and see if it works or acts the same.
What is the reputation of the Ride-4-Fun outfit that this replacement motor seems to have come from? I see that they rebuild controllers. Might they have some insight into the issues it might be having?
Should I be at all concerned about the charging algorithm thing?
What would the controller booting up in a different car mean?
I really don’t think R4F actually does the repairs. They turn it around and send to FSIP (Flight Systems).
Charging profile has nothing to do with this issue. If you changed battery type, then yes, you should change it for proper battery care.
If it boots then it can be tried in another car. If it works in that car then something else is going on with your car wiring. If it doesn’t work (acts the same) then it needs to go off to Flight Systems for a checkup. To save a step then send it straight off to Flight Systems(FSIP).
I will plan on sending the controller to FSIP. I do want to put things back together in their last working configuration before I start that process. Do you care to share the beeper ideas you mention above?
