F44002 Line Contactor Welded
you can find some F codes here
Taylor-Dunn Fault Codes | Polaris Commercial
F44002 Line Contactor Welded
you can find some F codes here
Taylor-Dunn Fault Codes | Polaris Commercial
Line Contactor Welded
OMG! That sounds quite ominous.
I think something like that happened to the Enterprise and they went into a Warp 9 Time Bubble and ended up back in the past before they could slow down.
Itās a good thing we have these safety checks in place.
Thank you! Iāve been hoping for something like this. It isnāt in the eM1400 manual, I thought it might be in digital wrench, but donāt have that one yet.
Could never understand why they made it so hard to find. Guess the eM1400ās really are that damn unique
@Inwo @Derrick @MauiGEM - This is what weāve been looking for (well, ok, I have beenā¦)
āCaptain, the DiLithium Crystals are melting! We canāt go any faster.ā
Awesome! How do we go about clearing these F codes? Is there a special trick or do we need a ECU like device?
Will I need a code reader to reset this fault? Checked everything
I think just clearing(repairing) the issue and a power reset would do it.
Hello all,
I have a 2015 GEM em 1400 LSV and I keep getting a code F170003, it flashes for a second or 2 on the speedometer and only usually occurs when I press the Accelerator pedal starting from a stop. Any Ideas of what it could? and what the fixes are?
I checked voltage on the batteries and 7 of them are at 6.7v and 1 is at 6.1v, not sure if that 1 at 6.1v is the culprit or direct issue.
Any help is appreciated, thank you
You got an extra zero in there, itās F17003.
eM1400ās throw sorta kinda Taylor-Dunn error codes. I think itās a basterdized curtis code? Regardless, hereās a list to start from:
Remember, codes are ambiguous and being on a eM1400 which has all manner of parts on it, itās a bigger kludge. I have a 2015 eM1400 also, and every time I work on it, all I can think is āThis reminds me of the time I worked on a Checker.ā
F17003 is a battery / voltage code, so yeah, Iād start there. 6.1 charged is going to tank down to the mid-low 5ās under load.
I would check all battery fluid(if itās go it) and top off with distilled(nothing but pure distilled water) and then put that 6.1V battery on a single charger until it hits 6.75-6.8V. Let it set for 1 hour and measure to see if it reads ~6.7V and if it does then charge them all together.
After the battery pack charge(wait 1+ hours), go back and measure all the battery voltages and hope they are all the same. With any luck that one battery wasnāt damaged much and maybe every month or two just needs a little kick charge to keep it inline with the others until another fails and then you know itās time for lithium.
Ah okay okay this is good to know, I appreciate the help! Need to talk to the seller we got the batteries from because we just replaced them in Sept 2021 so I will start there and see what changes
Blockquote you know itās time for lithium.
We were suggesting to this department that Lithium might be the ideal route since they donāt use it very often, and sadly these are AGM batteries so they are none serviceable but I also was given more info that they leave it plugged in all the time⦠and in my eyes that cant be good unless its a smart charger and knows when to kick on and off which I also am not entirely sure it is or not.
I work for a municipality and I just stumbled on this forum looking for answers and lucky to me you guys helped and I thank you for that. I will check back if the issue remains after the battery change.
Most batteries have a burned in brand on them to indicate when they were actually built. Different manufacturers brand in different places. If you find something, see if it is the same on all of the batteries.
Check your battery leads, clean of corrosion and tight?
Or, you could just have a dud.
Which battery in the chain is the stinker?
If you really want to surprise yourself make yourself some extra long jumper wires for your meter and leave them attached to the battery so you can get a reading while driving around.
Do this to each battery, then one more time across the whole pack. It might be good to take along an assistant to watch the meter. Report back with these numbers.
If you want to do this by yourself in the driveway you can load it up by pressing one foot on the brake real hard and stomping the throttle. This is called a Brake Stand Test.
Using the 50% rule (according to the chart I just scrounged up) you are starting off with a depleted battery.
Thatās my boy!
Blockquote Which battery in the chain is the stinker?
its right below the driver seat, to the right of the Q charger if I remember correctly, I filled in my boss with the findings since he was ready to order a whole new set of 2200 dollar batteries and I told him to wait and let me dig some more and Iām glad he listened
Battery leads look good and tight, I replaced the cables when I did the battery replacements.
So Iām thinking its a dud or they just charged the heck out of it and that battery ended up getting the short end of the stick
I doubt it was a fault of the charger or being plugged in too long. The DQ charger is pretty smart. Most likely it would be lack of attention. If batteries got out of balanced and drained it sets off a cascade that eventually leads to failure.
While I actually prefer neck bolts, you can forward the nipple instructions to your boss if you wish. The jagged teeth on the clips tend to cause excessive irritation. Piercings can provide better electrical contact but requires some preinstalled hardware. - Herman M.
So I got in the cart today to move it back into the shop and the F37003 flashed at me and was stumbling real bad, Had to limp it into the shop pretty much.
Looked up the code and said āPower Supply Criticalā and refer to dealer which we most likely wont do but going to go forward with ordering a battery and see what changes
Update: Replaced the bad battery and before I pulled it I wanted to see the voltage beforehand and it was hovering around 3.5 volts and Iām like āwell that cant be goodā so once it was replaced, test drove and drove great. Codes never reappeared and all batteries sitting around 6.7volts now.
Hoping this helps anyone in the future with these codes
is there anybody that has installed a lithium battery in gem cart g6, i did, and didnt unhook anything, im getting a trouble code on the dash now?