Chevy Spark / Volt Conversion

After getting everything hooked up the cart ran great but the speedo didn’t work. It had great pickup and I never did hold it wide open to see how fast it was on the gps but it did hit 40 no problem. After finding out that the brand new speed sensor from D&D was not sending a signal I had to jump through hoops for them to warranty it. I installed the new sensor and it was like someone slammed on the brakes. The speedo now works but the pickup is horrible and it tops out at 26mph. I had programmed the controller several weeks ago and I thought I had done a good job, obviously not. For now I have just unplugged the sensor and jumped the temp wire until I get time to try round two of programming the controller.

David, Any update on the conversion? What sort of range do you get and how are the batteries holding up? What is your top speed? At what point are people considering just upgrading to a new cart - new motor, disc brakes, etc.? Thanks

I get about 30 miles out of a charge. I have a heavy foot so depending on how you drive I’m sure you could get a lot more range out of it. I also charge it before it’s dead. I usually charge when it gets down in the 87-89 volt range so it still has some left. I have my programmed to do 40mph. The drum brakes work fine for me. I had a car pull out in front of me yesterday and I had no problem locking the brakes up. First time I had to do a panic stop and I was surprised how fast it stopped so for me I don’t see the need for disk brakes. I definitely understand why the Gem guys upgrade to disk brakes. The older ones are horrible. I’ve had these batteries for a year and a half now and they still perform as good as the day I installed them. I keep upping the voltage to see where the limit is. I’m at 97.6 and still no problems. I up it by a tenth of a volt every few charges. I installed the D&D motor which isn’t necessary unless you have the 4hp motor.

OK thanks. I have the stock 4hp motor - I’ll need to search on D&D motor to understand more.

You probably have a D1 controller since you have a 4hp motor if it has never been upgraded. You will need a D2 controller. You could always consider going with an ac motor and controller. Search the Gem forum if you’re interested. The Ford Think and Gem are very similar.

Sorry but how could I tell the version of the controller ? And I thought I had the “upgraded” Think motor. I will post a picture later this morning.

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Motor appears to be a 6hp motor part #2E38-14B280-BB (Advanced DC Motors).

The controller will have numbers on it but they are hard to see. Using a camera is a good way to see them. If the part number ends in D1 than it’s the old controller. If it’s D2 you have the updated one. You can also tell by the size of the controller. The D1’s are much smaller. D2 controller are over 8” long. If the motor is black than it’s probably the 6hp. The 4hp were gray. When Ford did the TSB they upgraded both at the same time. Most had the upgrade done along with the charger.

Hello fellow Think owners.

I just got me one and it’s in need of some TLC. My Deka Dominator gel batteries are not in a great shape. I’m considering going down the Li route if the investment is reasonable and provided I don’t end up in a deep rabbit hole, due to my very limited skills. I’m installing a 6hp and a Rev 2 controller.

What are the parts needed for a successful Li upgrade and what would be the approximate cost for the complete project?

Thank you

Lithium batteries, probably a charger, a voltage spoof if you want to go over 86 volts, a bms if you want to 100% sure your batteries are being charged properly and some other small things depending on what batteries you go with.

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Thank you David.what’s the approx. cost?

I was under $2500 all in