First of all, I can refund with return of charger, no problem.
Second, yes you did what I asked, but I’m not there, I need to know the results of each specific test to know what is happening.
Until now, I didn’t know you had a meter. I still don’t know what type it is.
Connection break came on a few times, is not the least helpful.
I needed that information when you first tried.
I need to know what mode and settings, where and how connections are made to battery.
What size and how long the leads are.
Exactly the point voltmeter is reading voltage at battery.
When voltage is measured. During a 10 (or 5) amp charge cycle? After charge cycle?
There are two possibilities other than bad charger. Which is very unlikely.
The voltage drop in the leads and internal battery resistance might be fooling the charger.
In that case set the voltage higher to compensate.
The charger and your meter may not agree. The charger should read high while charging. It is pushing current through a small hose. That’s normal. It’s smart enough to adjust.
The other is that the charger is mis-calibrated. Also not a problem. Set the charger higher to compensate.
The charger can then be replaced once I know the issue.
As I don’t suspect a bad charger, I’m quite sure you don’t want to think it’s a battery issue.
The normal way a bms protected battery works is to “break connection”.
If this is what happens. Battery is full and will not take more charge. Charger will either finish charge cycle
(0-amps) or display connection break.
After charging all batteries to a high voltage, say a 16 or 17v setting, are they all the same. 13.4 volts?
What level are they after charging with other charger?
