I have a 2018 e4 and I’ve been trying to narrow down some issues, but I’m not sure where to go from here. Any help would be very much appreciated. Long story short the motor and gauge shutoff when driving.
I upgraded to a 30 mile lithium pack by @LithiumGods and added a 12v auxiliary battery. Originally there was not a 12v aux battery under the dash. I added a 12v in the back when I upgraded to lithium in June 2022. I use a battery tender to charge and maintain the 12v. I replaced the 12v battery yesterday with a 80ah 12v AGM group 24 marine battery to see if that would fix my issues, but it seemed to get worse.
For the past few months, when I first start driving and stop at a stop sign, the motor will disengage (with the gauge and turn signal still working) and I’ll have to turn the key off and back on to make the motor work again. It then drives well and works without any errors.
These past few weeks the gauge and motor will randomly shut off when driving. I turn the key off and on to get it working again. This happened 3 times yesterday within 5 miles of driving (with new 12v installed). The new 12v read 13.1v prior to driving.
Yesterday when the orange error triangle was illuminated I had the below codes:
• 520549:5
• 520553:5
• 520545:5
• 520546:5
• 520358:4
• 520606:31
After the third time of the losing power (gauge and motor) the orange error triangle turned off, the codes went away, and I had no issues. This has happened before and it always comes back followed by losing power (gauge and motor).
I checked the VIN search on the Polaris website and there aren’t any recalls. From the factory it came with AGM batteries and fan/heater.
I have 2 other issues that are probably unrelated, but I thought worth mentioning in case.
High beams wont turn on when engaged, they did work at one point
does it have a BMS installed? almost sounds like it’s faulting for either pulling too many amps or regen pushing a cell over voltage.
I have that issue with my car. I have the bms stopping the charging cycle vs. letting the charging profile finish out. I also have regen up pretty high. If I got downhill from my house, regen will fault the BMS, which confuses the controller, and I have to cycle the key to get moving. Once i pull the batteries down slightly, it’s not an issue.
I thought all the 12v stuff was to the frame? My 12 volt packs is up front under the dash… guess I never chased down the negative side and where it was going to. @Inwo would certainly know better than me
The battery box has a bms installed. The regen in the gem is pushing the cell voltage a little too high for a second or two and turning off the charge circuit which causes the problem. I have the Max charge voltage at a conservative setting and it is causeing this error for the first mile. Making some adjustments with it and setting up his axuilary battery to be charged by the Gem. Also going to be adjusting his final charger voltage setting. Note: This is why you don’t use BMS for shut off of charging. If regen kicks in at full charge it will fault. @Erniea15 has been dealing with this for years. Not a big issue but a minor PITA.
Is the regen on these triggered by a 2nd switch on the bake pedal?
If it is, a little hack could be something which looks at the battery charge level and when it is full, don’t pass the switch operation to the controller until it’s below a preset voltage.
This way the regen would operate much like the big cars do and disable/limit regen when the battery is full.
I’m trying to go easy on my 11 year old Chevy Volt batteries! i stop charging at 4.05. Only take them up to 4.10 (profile 177) when I know I will go long distances. Usually, if I drive it a couple of blocks, that’s enough to pull down the voltage, and it’s not a big deal.
I’ve kick-ed around the idea of a toggle switch to change profiles on the fly… one with aggressive regen and little to no regen. We’ve also talked about programming it so this would happen dynamically. The guys have been willing to help… just never seem to get around to it. Hasn’t bugged me that much.
Ernie I didn’t know you had that problem, it’s not hard to turn regen off if battery is full in non oem cars however it is hard in oem cars (I’m working on it)
You can also fix it letting the charger to stop and put bms OVP higher,
Example 177 cuts at 4.10 and bms at 4.20 so when it regens it will have that gap without triggering OVP. Make sure charger cuts off at the right voltage,
The switch idea is not bad but iirc the only switch is in the master cylinder and it might also triggers low brake fluid (just guessing here)
If that’s the case it’s probably best to try and try to do 2 programs, one with regen and one with very little regen and either a manual switch or use a micro-controller to do it when the BMS says the battery is full.
