A possibility:
This tells me that there may be something overloading the DC Converter and shutting it down. Unplug J4 again, measure across the Red and Black wires again. See if you observe the ~1V (delay) then 13V show back up.
Other random thoughts:
Take a real good look at the terminal connections on the front of the PSDM again. Is the black plastic cover around the bolt bases melted on any of the three?
Find the big wires coming out of the DQ. You will find a cable containing another (bigger12ga) set of wires containing a Rd, Wt, Bk, & Gn.
Follow the Rd wire to where it goes(either the front of the PSDM B+(+72) or it will go to the Bat + side of the Main Relay.
The Bk wire will go to the NEG connection on the top of the controller or to the B- (-72v) on the front of the PSDM.
Make sure all of those connections are tight and the terminals are solid.
Or
The DC Converter may be just failing. We might want to do a load test on it with an off road light or something.
Today there was no clicking. J4 has 0.v mostly. Switching the main switch on and off it can spike to 3.v momentarily on occasion but then drop off. The PSDM connections all look clean and intact. No signs of damage or heat. The 72v poles still have 78v.
At the DQ all the connections look tight and intact. I’m not sure if the 12ga wires you’re referencing exit the plug on top with about 20 pins. The black, green, and red appear to go to the motor speed sensor.
Actually now I looked up the DQ DCI I realized I was looking at the wires coming from the controller, not the DQ. It’s mounted on top of the DQ. I’ll check the wires from the DQ.
Yes, I know… the Charger is tucked in way up under there.
There are probably 3 wire groups of wires coming out of the yellow box. The ones you found so far are not what I was asking about.
Yes, the big fray is coming out of the top is the controller plug.
Those three wires going downto the speed sensor actually go into the harness and eventually the controller.
What I am looking for starts off as a black molded assembly as it exits from the controller. much like an extension cord. Then it gets stripped back and exposes the inside 4 wires and they branch off in other directions.
The DQ is a combination unit that Charges the batteries when plugged into the 120vAC supply. It uses the wires I am looking for to charge the batteries but also to supply the internal DC Converter to supply 12vdv for the car accessories. I just wanted to verify their connections.
This box also has a multi LED status display on it. It is usually mounted so you can see it from the driver side front wheel if you look towards the center of the car over the top of the wheel and past the shock. When plugged in to charge, what does that display show?
If the charger sees the battery pack fine, then I’d say this is confirmed.
Your Internal DC Converter is bad.
The car needs 12v to run some of the systems.
The Delta Q must be connecting to the batteries because the voltage goes up when it charges. I was talking with the guy from R4F about the motor and he was saying the Delta Q is junk. Should I just upgrade it when I order the motor? Or possibly have this one rebuilt. After this problem, I think it is beneficial to have the DeltaQ and DC converter separate.
My only real concern is I don’t want to be without a charger too long that the batteries drop too low and cause even more problems for me.
Remember this is coming from someone that is trying to upsell you a charger.
Which charger was he suggesting?
The main problem is that installing one of those chargers is that it still doesn’t fix your problem. Did “the guy” offer a solution to the DC Converter issue?
Your charger is not the problem. The Converter built into it is.
I didn’t ask about the charger or converter. At the time, about 10 days ago the only problem I had was the motor. I’m not sure which one he would suggest replacing with. Yeah that’s right, I would need a new converter as well if I did upgrade the charger. Sounds expensive. Does DeltaQ rebuild these units?
I think it is beneficial to have the DeltaQ and DC converter separate.
I more/less agree here. You can buy down converters pretty cheap. You can also size them according to what you plan to add on. (stereo/extra lights).
Normally these cars have a constant(always ON) and a switched output so you would need to install two or look for a converter that has dual outputs but watch out and plan for what the proper trigger V would be.
Before I do order a new DeltaQ, are we sure that the DC to DC is the malfunction? Is there a way to test the output coming from the 12v side of the DeltaQ/DC to DC?
I know we tested the 12v-always-on at the PSDM, this comes directly from the DeltaQ all the time? So it bypasses the key-on. Meaning the DeltaQ DC to DC 12v output is always on. Can I test this at the feed directly off the DeltaQ, before it enters the PSDM?
Does the main switch kill the 12v always on? In the tests we’ve done so far has there been one that shows the main switch working?
I spoke again with the R4F guy and he suggested making sure it’s the DeltaQ because the PSDM is a more common failure point. (and less $$$). Also said the DeltaQ is the only option.
Is there a way to test the output coming from the 12v side of the DeltaQ/DC to DC?
Can I test this at the feed directly off the DeltaQ, before it enters the PSDM?
Scroll back up to post 19. Remember J4?
Yep- that’s what we did there.
The only thing we did NOT test is the switched side of the DCI. For that we need to inject 12v into the Green wire. Then the white wires will show/output 12v. But seeing as how we don’t have 12v at the moment I did not see the point.
If you want, Pull the thing out and send it to me. I will have a look at it. I think Inwo says he might have a replacement converter to drop in. I’ll see what I can do. My friend’s dad is a TV repair man and has an awesome set of tools.
Ok right, yeah that makes sense. I can’t t test the switch because J4 is not delivering anything. Therefore the problem is upstream of the main switch anyhow.
Inwo do you have a pic of the converter? Depending on the contact layout it may be something I can tackle.I am not an electronics guru but I can solder.
Otherwise I’ll order a new one and AssyRequired can experiment with this one.
Good ol R4F -
I have seen maybe one PSDM fail, and not sure it was actually bad.
I have seen dozens and dozens of DQ’s fail.
Last time I checked the PSDM was over 1000.00 dollars if you can even find one.
