With the key off, I get 73 voltage on the orange thin wire if I touch the B positive, but between both small wires, I don’t get any voltage with the key off.
Well, I bought the one on eBay. Let’s see if this fixes the issue.
If I could afford
I just wish I knew how to fix this. Hopefully this new relay works.
Why do you feel the relay will be the deus ex machina that solves everything?
AssyRequired is one of the most patient troubleshooters I’ve ever met. Don’t skip over his advice.
And if you’re feeling froggy, instead of jumping into something, put the tools away and go drink until you croak that night.
With the key off, I get 73 voltage on the orange thin wire if I touch the B positive, but between both small wires, I don’t get any voltage with the key off.
See- There you go again. These are things I did not tell you to do. I presently don’t know what it would do in those conditions. (KeyOFF, Org wire to B+ and also Bk to B+) It doesn’t really matter.
- Possibly you got all mixed up remembering the tests?
-or- - You are just hitting it from as many angles just trying to understand it?
The only other test that you could do that would actually show you something is to remove both Or and Bk wires from the coil, Dial your meter to measure Ohms, then measure across the tabs where the wires once were.
I did not give you that test because I don’t know right off hand what number you would expect (maybe 50 to 200 ohms?). You would make me go out and do this test myself just to find out and I’m too lazy for that.
However…
I AM fairly sure if you did this right now your results would be nothing (not 0 zero), aka- no connection, or OL on your meter (which means Open Lead).
This means your coil has a broken wire in it.
I mentally saw this broken wire when I had you test the coil in place.
Review results - KeyON, B+ Power on the orange wire, and no power on the other side) (Both Ref B-)
===
Perhaps it would help if you Understood a little more about what is going on.
- KeyON puts B+ direct to that Orange wire.
We saw this with your meter when we probed the orange wire at the connector, but we had to reference B- (other meter probe on B-). - When (and ONLY when) all safety checks are passed, you can press the throttle pedal, the controller commands the relay to close by internally connecting the other side of the coil (the black wire) to B-. This completes a basic electrical loop and the relay snaps closed.
- Result- Pressing the pedal a bit more → the car moves.
- If there is an error, the controller halts the boot up routine until that error clears. Most of the time this cannot be bypassed.
Behind the curtain
As mentioned above, At KeyON the controller goes through a few tricky circuit and safety tests. One of them has it looking at the condition of this MC relay.
Since it knows the orange wire has B+ on it, It expects to see a predicted voltage/current leaking down from the black (control) wire coming from this relay coil. In your case it does not see anything. There could be a broken wire, loose connection, or totally missing relay.
Result → Code 64. Do not pass GO. Do not collect $200.
In contrast, Safety checks also include a look for a fully shorted MC coil or wiring [Current/V too high]. This would be an error code -65. Without this test, the controller sends the command to close (getting ready to go) a resulting direct connection to B- would most likely damage your controller.
Wow thank you for all the info.
Yes o did the ohms test this morning with the things removed and it was 0 ohms. So you where correct bad relay
An update, @AssyRequired you are a beast!!! Master.
Thank you everyone else that was part of it as well! 
It was the solenoid that was bad. It finally got it shipped here to Georgia and I got it installed and I got the car driving but now my 12 V headlights are not working. It was working before.
The blue light on the panel would show up on the lights are on, but now it’s not turning on at all.
If it’s easy fix, it would be good to fix. If not if it’s too hard of a fix, I don’t wanna break anything. I would just install a secondary switch for the lights..
now my 12 V headlights are not working. It was working before.
Before the spark incident?
Tough to say. That car looks like it is probably quite far away from factory wiring, but since you seem to have a turn signal, I’m guessing the switched 12v is going active at KeyON.
Have you looked at the fuse block yet?
Specifically, Fuse 1 - That seems to be related to Headlights. It also happens to power the horn.
1 Like
Start by checking the fuse/. If the lighting wiring hasn’t been modified, it should be on the fuse circled in red:
Looks like most of the fuses on your GEM were replaced with much higher amperage rated fuses than called for. This could mean that there were issues before with draw and this was the quick fix, or there was a BOGO sale on 30 amp fuses… Either way, not a great situation - unless you like car-B-ques.
1 Like
Thank you I’ll check tomorrow morning
Hey, if you don’t have the owners manual for here’s the link for the 2013:
For other years, here’s the landing page:
Thank you for the manual. No, I never had it. The fuse is good so that’s not it.
The fuse is good so that’s not it.
Beyond visually checking the fuse, Did you happen to probe it with your voltmeter looking for 12v? (Both sides of the fuse) (reference ChassGnd)
(KeyON)
Also- Check S1, S2, S3 - 12vAcc points to see if you actually have 12v active. (ref ChassGnd) ( KeyON)
1 Like
What a great opportunity you have here for going outside the box.
Seriously, how f-ing cool would it be to have real acetylene headlights?
I wouldn’t going full steampunk, that’s is so 2014, but real, working vintage acetylene headlights… just don’t make stuff like that anymore.
Yea those are cool.
I just don’t like the gold color, but those are awesome
A higher voltage battery will get you more power and speed. Too bad you didn’t ask first, before buying a mid voltage battery. You have a pretty high performance motor now.
Tell it to eat it’s vegetables and take its vitamins. Then it will grow up big and stong.
Here’s a random idea, get the pos to run first. Then see if you need a bigger motor. The motor on there is one of better and bigger ones as it is (its a rebadged D&D Systems motor)
Actually, spinach works best ….
1 Like
According to my notes- that AS115-1 gearbox comes up as 12.44 gears.
(considered the hill climbing set)
I suppose you could keep your eye out for some 14.xx gears.
What are you doing to this cart where you need more power?
I doubt you are looking for more speed.