With the key off, I get 73 voltage on the orange thin wire if I touch the B positive, but between both small wires, I don’t get any voltage with the key off.
Well, I bought the one on eBay. Let’s see if this fixes the issue.
If I could afford
I just wish I knew how to fix this. Hopefully this new relay works.
Why do you feel the relay will be the deus ex machina that solves everything?
AssyRequired is one of the most patient troubleshooters I’ve ever met. Don’t skip over his advice.
And if you’re feeling froggy, instead of jumping into something, put the tools away and go drink until you croak that night.
With the key off, I get 73 voltage on the orange thin wire if I touch the B positive, but between both small wires, I don’t get any voltage with the key off.
See- There you go again. These are things I did not tell you to do. I presently don’t know what it would do in those conditions. (KeyOFF, Org wire to B+ and also Bk to B+) It doesn’t really matter.
- Possibly you got all mixed up remembering the tests?
-or- - You are just hitting it from as many angles just trying to understand it?
The only other test that you could do that would actually show you something is to remove both Or and Bk wires from the coil, Dial your meter to measure Ohms, then measure across the tabs where the wires once were.
I did not give you that test because I don’t know right off hand what number you would expect (maybe 50 to 200 ohms?). You would make me go out and do this test myself just to find out and I’m too lazy for that.
However…
I AM fairly sure if you did this right now your results would be nothing (not 0 zero), aka- no connection, or OL on your meter (which means Open Lead).
This means your coil has a broken wire in it.
I mentally saw this broken wire when I had you test the coil in place.
Review results - KeyON, B+ Power on the orange wire, and no power on the other side) (Both Ref B-)
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Perhaps it would help if you Understood a little more about what is going on.
- KeyON puts B+ direct to that Orange wire.
We saw this with your meter when we probed the orange wire at the connector, but we had to reference B- (other meter probe on B-). - When (and ONLY when) all safety checks are passed, you can press the throttle pedal, the controller commands the relay to close by internally connecting the other side of the coil (the black wire) to B-. This completes a basic electrical loop and the relay snaps closed.
- Result- Pressing the pedal a bit more → the car moves.
- If there is an error, the controller halts the boot up routine until that error clears. Most of the time this cannot be bypassed.
Behind the curtain
As mentioned above, At KeyON the controller goes through a few tricky circuit and safety tests. One of them has it looking at the condition of this MC relay.
Since it knows the orange wire has B+ on it, It expects to see a predicted voltage/current leaking down from the black (control) wire coming from this relay coil. In your case it does not see anything. There could be a broken wire, loose connection, or totally missing relay.
Result → Code 64. Do not pass GO. Do not collect $200.
In contrast, Safety checks also include a look for a fully shorted MC coil or wiring [Current/V too high]. This would be an error code -65. Without this test, the controller sends the command to close (getting ready to go) a resulting direct connection to B- would most likely damage your controller.
Wow thank you for all the info.
Yes o did the ohms test this morning with the things removed and it was 0 ohms. So you where correct bad relay