2013 Gem E2 error 64 Please Help

Yes, I tested it with the wire still attached to the relay.

When I touched the small orange wire to the negative on the motor controller, I get 71.5

When I touch the small black wire next to the small orange wire to the positive side , I get 68.5

And yes, I touched both sides of the connector and they’re both the same

Your second test (Black coil wire to Pos) is somewhat irrelevant.

Just to be sure What I think I am seeing,

Remove that black wire from the relay and probe the flag that it came from.
(Orange wire still connected)

You should see close to PackV. on the flag where the black wire normally lives.

===

Q- As you are removing, playing around (disconnecting/reconnecting)
Is this relay clacking/clunking/operating?

From the black/green wire that is disconnected i get 68.5v to positive on motor controller

From the terminals it self o get nothing

When I rep plug it in, I hear zero noises

To me- It sure looks like this relay is bad. Do you have any others part cars you can pull one from?

No, I’m not a car guy. Is there anyway I can bypass the relay?

I downloaded the app. The battery has a Bluetooth connection.

Now back at error 57

-57 ???
This still points to that relay. Does it try and slap closed when you press on the pedal a bit?

No i dont hear nothing

So if there’s no way to bypass, I guess I have to buy another relay. Do you have any specific one you’d recommend?

A -64 is a controller safety check and cannot be bypassed.
if it is truly gone(possibly due to cleaning those terminals)

and now -57 is present then sometimes this can be dodged (as a test only by jumping the two big terminals on the relay. hook onto it with a big set of jumper cables when Key is on and see if the -57 clears.

press the pedal slightly to see if -

  • any other codes pop up
  • the -64 returns
  • or the car moves

This is test to see if you are chasing the correct tail.

If car moves - then go find another Main Contactor/relay.

Error code 64 came back

Hi

this new type small solenoid are not good and go bad,can you do a ohm test and see if coil are good ?

This was the reason I had him testing for PackV on one side, and looking for it on the other.

In this case, there was nothing.

If i buy this would this work?

No. That looks like A 48V. You need at least 72v.

I would wait for @AssyRequired before spending good money for bad. IMO

So what should i do? Get a 72v one?

I was waiting for Byron to confirm. But yes, if you measure voltage on one side of coil and none on other side, then coil is open and needs to be replaced with a 72v contactor.

A new Gem. One that actually works

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