2011 Gem elXD, while driving about 15mph and going up a steep gravel driveway, power cut out, display flickered then came back on. Tried to go again, power cut out and display shut off. Now I have nothing on the display and no response when I turn the key or anything. I noticed a burning plastic type of smell. It didn’t seem to be from under the hood, and I didn’t smell it near the batteries so I figured it was under the dash. Today (2 days later) I towed it home, and lifted the seat off, and I See this burnt connection at the fuse. If I wiggle the plastic cover, I see sparks.
What to troubleshoot? Could it simply be this one connection wasn’t great?
More importantly, I don’t know how to safely work on the high voltage DC stuff. What are basic safety precautions? How to completely de-energize? I didn’t even want to put a wrench on that connection as I see sparks if I move it by touching the insulation.
I also just noticed that the cord I had been charging with is a little melted where it plugs into the cart.
When measuring for Pack Voltage, always use the posts up at the PSDM. You will not get an inaccurate reading when going to frame.
When checking individual batteries they do not need to be disconnected.
If you moved the cable at the fuse and it sparked, I would first pay special attention to that. Then inspect/clean all cables are clean and tight. A dirty/loose connection will get hot and easily melt plastic. If ignored, it will get hot enough to melt lead.
The voltages I mentioned in my second post were from the PSDM
OK so I guess the voltage of each battery at 8.4-8.5 for each is accurate and they seem good without any dud batteries.
I will go out there next and clean all the battery connections and that connection at the fuse. I forgot to attach the picture of that connection… here it is.
Questions:
Would corroded terminals and a high resistance connection at the main fust explain why my voltage at the PSDM is around 70 (6 volts lower than the sum of the individual battery voltages which would be closer to my typical 76?)
Would the low voltage at the PSDM make it so that my display is blank? I have checked fuses visually.
When I disconnected the wires at the 250amp fuse, I could see that the fuse had burnt out/split at the lower connection. Do you think I can use this one at napa? https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7821142
Working on cleaning and tightening battery connections.
I jumped the 250 amp fuse, hooked it up, got 76V at the PSDM, and the display turned on normally no error codes. I then undid the jump at the fuse, and will wait until I have a new fuse before actually trying the cart, but I suspect it’s all set.
EXCEPT, I then wanted to give a quick clean/grease/tighten of the connections at the PSDM. I wish I didn’t since they didn’t look bad. I sheared off the B- stud. Any ideas on how to fix that?
I put a connector nut on and a bolt on that. I think it will work but a little afraid to tighten it much.
I also got a 250amp fuse from an auto parts store, but it’s only rated 32v dc. Voltage rating seems to be about what happens after the fuse blows. Can’t seem to find a higher voltage rated 250 amp fuse.
I don’t think the fuse actually blew, that would be internal to the plastic area
ALL of the motor current goes through the two B- connections on the right. This is a quick in/out as it passes through the shunt (mounted on the board). A loose connection would generate heat, maybe melt the plastic housing, cook the board.
The B+ connection on the board is not as critical. It powers the DC Converter, some minor B+ signal current, and bigger amps if you have a heater.
That 250amp fuse I got doesn’t match the two studs, it is short by about 1/4 inch. Anybody know a part number for one that will fit? Or do I need to find a new mounting block?
