2010 Gem el xd error codes

[AssyRequired]

Still chewing on this. Here are some additional thoughts.

Speed sensor

I don’t really suspect that I need to replace the magnet, as I don’t get an error code until I hit the pedal.

This was a guess. We might still need to come back to this.
Agreed, I have always associated -82 being more associated with the sensor and not the magnet.

I DO find it odd that rolling the car For/Back 10 feet does not generate enough signal to trigger a number change on the display. (usually it does). Checking the green wire from the sensor might see some movement on a digital meter but difficult to predict.

Note - If you are rolling the wheel with both tires up in the air, then most likely the other wheel is going in the other direction as you are spinning the first wheel. This is the nature of how your gearbox/differential works and more suitable for another thread.
Mentioned here because if the other wheel is spinning, the motor is probably not(or very much). I think you noticed this with your comment here.

I also noted that the motor only spins when there is torque, so once the wheels are spinning steady, the magnet doesn’t spin and I have stop and spin again to get the motor to spin,

If you want to observe this, Have someone hold the other wheel or block in in some way that keeps it from soinning (possibly leave it on the ground?

-11 Pedal Error
I am leaning more towards something is dodgy in this controller.
From what I can tell from your descriptions, the pedal switch is functioning correctly. Even you test on P3 looks normal.

Random thought of the day
Maybe this is a controller input power issue?
Way back in the beginning of this post I had you fully remove the controller lid for inspection. You had it back together before I could get you to clean the internal pad connections for the Pos and Neg cables (they looked a little messy). We might need to make sure these are cleaned later, but for now → make sure these connections on top of the controller are a bit more than snug tight.

A known point of point of failure is sometimes the flippy breaker on the front of the PSDM. Make a small jumper wire and go across the two connection points as a test.

Another point of fail might also be the twin B- wires on the front of the PSDM (right side). Look at them close for any signs of heat(like a melted case where the studs exit below the cable lug and bolt fastens. As a test → Jump across those two studs (momentarily hold a wire across if you want) and see if that gets you past the -11 at pedal press.

Let us not forget the Pack
It might also be a good idea to go though all of your battery connections and look for loose, corroded, fuzzy, melted, rusty, discolored, or otherwise dodgy connections back there.
Clean, Bright and Tight is the rule.

[hamm107]

Thanks @AssyRequired. I’m hoping to get a couple hours tomorrow to mess around some more. I have the controller together but not all bolted into the cart so it wouldn’t be too much work to open it and clean those connections.

I did just try jumping the B wires on the right side… nothing changed. All of the large wires on the PSDM look clean to me. I’m not sure what you mean by the flippy breaker on the front of the PSDM though for the other jumper test?

Do you know if the 7.4v steady I was seeing at the speed sensor is what it should be when not moving?

I might also start going through the Drive and Power Systems Troubleshooting Chart and see if I can find any abnormalities unless anybody can think of any more specific testing. I will be ordering a magnet for the speed sensor just to see.

[AssyRequired]

Drive and Power Systems Troubleshooting Chart

That document seems to get people into more trouble than it actually helps.

The flippy breaker is my pet name for that Main Power Disconnect Switch at the bottom of the fuse panel. Flippy breaker is just more fun to write.

Dial up those detective skills.
Remember to check everything suggested. All connections in the battery chain, the fuse that is back there, Even take a good look at the fuse F13 and look inside the fuse holder for mayhem.

Don’t get too distracted with the speed sensor at this time. We need to clear this -11 first.

[hamm107]

I think I have now done all of the checks that people have mentioned. I’ve pulled and reconnected just about every wire that I can find. I have a speed sensor magnet coming soon (and now I definitely need it because I took the mine off and damaged the magnet and plastic ring trying to get it back on).

I just did most of the tests in the Drive and Power System Troubleshooting Chart. There were 2 that didn’t seem right.
Step 11 - Fuse 9 to ground was 20v (should be 12?)
Step 11a - PSDM J4 pin C to ground (I used PSDM 72- or bat-) is 30v (should be 12v?)
Step 7 - On the contactor, one post reads 73v, the other reads 75v, to bat- or 72-.

I also dd the accelerator pedal tests in the manual, which are probably okay but were a little off:
-23-pin connector pin 7 at idle was .3, when pedal pressed all the way it only goes to 3v (should be 4v?)
-23-pin connector pin 3 starts at 4.7 and when pedal pressed goes to .07v (should be 0)

@AssyRequired , I have also jumped the 2 B studs and across the main switch. I’m going to double check all of the battery connections today and the connections at the controller to tighten them up.

Do any of those electrical readings above mean anything to anybody?

[AssyRequired]

@hamm107

Step 11 - Fuse 9 to ground was 20v (should be 12?)
Step 11a - PSDM J4 pin C to ground (I used PSDM 72- or bat-) is 30v (should be 12v?)
Step 7 - On the contactor, one post reads 73v, the other reads 75v, to bat- or 72-.

That’s 3 things.
Step 11 - What are you using for Ground? (should have been frame/chassis/dash brace (see note1)
Step11a - Yes, should have used Frame/chassis/dash brace. (not B-)
Step 7 - This is normal.

Pedal test is fine. Not your issue.

Moving to the next phase. See you PMessages.

[hamm107]

Gotcha, testing those to dash frame rail is 13.4 to both.

Thanks, I will PM you and update this thread if we get anywhere.

[hamm107]

I sent my controller in to be refurbished. It tested bad, and it was refurbished and sent back.
Re-installed it and still the same thing still. Code 11.
Since I last posted I did replace the speed sensor and magnet.
Also, previously tested the pedal and it seemed OK.
Pulled just about every connector I could find.
Did various electrical tests recommended here
Battery connections look good but I haven’t cleaned and retorqued.
I previously incorrectly posted that it didn’t show any speed when I push it; while towing it under cover to get it out of the snow it did show speed.
@AssyRequired also previously mentioned a possible controller input voltage issue and wanted me to check the posts inside the controller. I assume that those are good now with the refurb, but are there things to check further back? Also, if I see steady pack voltage at the controller does that mean it’s good or are you thinking it could be short rapid variations due to an iffy connection somewhere that is possibly messing with it but aren’t showing on a digital meter?

Thanks

[hamm107]

Just a follow up as the issue is now fixed after 4 months of troubleshooting and buying parts. Thanks to everybody that helped.

I went back to the first steps suggested in the fall. UNPLUG, CHECK, REPLUG all connectors. I have done that a couple of times and always determined they looked “clean.” Today I sprayed every connector I could find (23-pin, all PSDM, dash, etc) with MAF sensor cleaner that I had around, and then applied dielectric grease to each of those. Plugged it all back in and it works normal.

[hamm107]

Since it was working up on jack stands there has been snow on the ground so I hadn’t put the whole thing back together until recently. It was running great, but then I did start to get my original code 82, and no mph on the screen. Fiddling with the speed sensor connector and 23-pin connector cleared it and it worked for a while, showing speed. But then again the -82 comes back and it stops. I’m not as worried about this issue as it seems to be narrowed down and likely easily fixable. Note that it has a new magnet and sensor.

I think it’s narrowed down to the 23-pin connector. @AssyRequired I remember seeing you comment on a couple of people’s posts with instructions on how to tighten up the female contacts in the 23-pin connector. I think I have at least 4 that are spread open and are suspect, see the attached picture (3 on the bottom and 1 in the middle). I search a bit but wasn’t getting the key words right to find your instructions. Would you mind explaining and posting a picture of how to squeeze those contacts back in?

[AssyRequired]

Difficult to tell. When I zoom in on this pic it is out of focus.
Pins 14, 15, and 16 are related to the speed sensor. Most likely 14 is the problem wire as it is the signal return from the sensor.
(Ignore the blue arrow in this pic pointing to P1. It was leftover from another post)

See those little black tabs? Press in a bit to release and the red cap comes off the front.
Then you will get a better view on the female pins and the wipers that actually make the contact on the male pins when plugged into the controller.

I like to use an allen wrench inserted into the female pin (use a size fairly small so you aren’t re-spreading the wipers) and push the whole pin/wire/allen wrench assembly out the back. Leave the allen wrench in place so it helps align the pin when putting it all back in place.

Once out/removed- the pin will look like this:

Very gently, push on the 3 wipers so they are inset and almost touching each other in the center. I use a pick or a tiny screwdriver, and magnifier headset for these old eyeballs.
** This is very delicate work, so take your time **

Also note that your rubber seal seems to be all twisted up(I can see it in your picture). See if you can get that out of the groove and straighten it out.

[hamm107]

Thank you. I popped off the red thing. The spots that I thought were suspect actually just didn’t have female pins, they were blank. None of the pins looked abnormal to me but I did press in the wipers on each of the female pins in the connector, especially paying attention to 14, 15, 16.

That seems to have cleared the -82 from happening and gave me speed on the dash again. I drove it around and up and down the road a bit and it was all fine. Thanks for the help.