2005 lost speed

2005 E2 T3 - batteries 3 months - short AMD 7.5 - 37 mph cart. Normal this morning. This after noon 16 mph turtle NO CODE. Checked everything normally checked. Trip to FSIP?

No codes? That is odd - does it show Turtle mode or are you just saying that to state what it is doing?

What is speedo showing at top speed?
Are you running MM? Speed magnet?
When switch to turf does it act any different? (goes even slower).

Normally 37 mph - MM - no change - changes on dash

I think the turf test(no difference) tells me it is not a speed sensor issue,
It also scraps the idea of a stuck brush. It would go slower in turf mode too.
(I feel silly suggesting a stuck brush to the motor master.)
Disregard this line of thinking out loud.

Throttle? Key OFF and rabbit stomp the go-pedal a bit. Key ON and test again.

Has it been raining? Check the 23p for wetness.
Maybe check the throttle connect also?

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I had the same problem your describing, it turned out to be the speed sensor.

If both speeds are the same, maybe it is in turf mode. Test turf and forward volts at the 23p plug.
I always get a fault code with sensor issues.

It is in turtle, or runs like a turtle?

Starts out up to about 20 then fades’ then turtle

BRAIN FART. Replace throttle.

I chased this problem 3 years ago on a 6 seater… Exactly same symptoms.

It’s weird that it starts off with a little spunk and tapers down to a crawl.
Almost like there is enough current going through the track of resistive paste (wiper track) that it heats up and resistance goes high?

Boy… it would be nice to have access to some runtime data for diagnosing stuff like this.

Odd thought on closing- Going to full throttle is not going through any resistive track. It should be full on. I’m going to have to look at what would do this.

Just for clarity- You keep using the description “Turtle”. Is this just describing the slow crawl in the end?
Or- Does the turtle light actually come on?

Need to know. Also, I can help if you need throttle or repair.
I have a new pcb and armature for one. Although I’m not 100% sure it’s wired the same pin out.

Turtle doesn’t come on right away but as it slows down.

If I hadn’t chased down this exact problem 6 years ago I would still be chasing my tail. This doesn’t happen very often so put it in your mind bank for future reference,

The throttle won’t put it in turtle mode. Voltage drop will.
I would lock it in “F” and disconnect “turf” as a test.
The Gem psdm controls the logic from the F-T-R switch to controller.

It does this by moving the “F” wire to the “turf” pin and turning on the turtle symbol.

Remove the “turf” wire from controller and splice it into the “F” wire should lock car in high.

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An actual “turtle light” is a different line of diagnostics.
I’ll need to check if the PSDM or the Controller actually triggers the light.

Clamp a Volt meter onto the controller and see what it sees when driving around. Then go to the pack connections and see if it is different.

I’d almost say this sounds like a battery fail or connection issue. Either a lug or a crimp.

Maybe even a loose lug on the shunt?

(I realize you probably know this, I am just going through the motions for the future me when I forget this stuff, and archive readers searching this stuff)

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yup, my thought was a battery cable or lug. Lug could get hot from bad crimp then expand and make crimp worst and trigger low voltage turtle mode. Heatshrink can hide the crimp but the heat should be noticeable if checked as soon as turtle/slow mode is sensed.

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Having one of those IR modules for your phone would come in handy for times like this.

I usually just use my hands and feel each battery connection and then cable joint. But I also have one of these HT-175 units which would do the trick too. Made with Chinesium https://www.amazon.com/ZheHanWUFB-Infrared-20°C-300°C-Industrial-Applications/dp/B09PHNBK2Y/ref=sr_1_3

Heh- Not exactly a shining review of the Chinesium tech when you have it in the drawer and you can’t bother walking over to get it and just use your hands to feel for the heat instead.


the cheap ones are not fast acting and are low resolution. Fast and easy to use hands to feel the terminals since there should be little warmth at all on the terminals if all is good. I’ve used it on circuit boards to look for faulty sections along with freeze spray. Also used to find cold spots around vents and eves to get insulation set properly.

I carry an IR gun in my cart tool kit.