Ran fine until recently and began losing speed until dead. Have nearly new batteries with 72 v showing, Controller checked twice. Seems that when plugged in, batteries full charged, car runs, but when returned to charger and plugged in, when ready to go… no power. Suspect it isn’t charger since batteries do charge up. But, seems after being plugged in, it is over heated or something. Later on, car runs again. Driving me and others crazy. Someone suggested it might be the lockout switch that keeps you from driving with it plugged in. So, disconnected “green” wire as suggested, and then no power, nothing!
You have to connect the green wire and the red/green stripe wire together… I’m interested in this cause a friend has the same problem with a 2006. In desperation he sent the controller for service.
The wire that the green was connected to, needs to go to B+ to power car and bypass lockout.
I’m sure, because I just removed my DQ charger.
The green wire coming from the timer is B+72 volts
Not that one.
The green coming from DQ connects to something.
Connect B+ to that.
That’s what the charger does. It sends B+ to the car to let it run.
When the charger is plugged in. B+ (72v) goes away and car is dead.
[quote=OLD HOUSEBOATER;30432]You have to connect the green wire and the red/green stripe wire together… I’m interested in this cause a friend has the same problem with a 2006. In desperation he sent the controller for service.
I’ll pass this info on tomorrow to auto/electric place that have been pulling their hair out. Taking the car out and up to 25MPH, then returning after a considerable ride, plugging it in and then unplugging expecting to go, and nothing!! Now later on, you can get on the cart and ride again. I use mine to drive senior citizens, and as a Chaplain in American Legion, I like to drive my buddies in the parades… gotta find an answer. Already had the controller tested by Ride 4 Us and they said it is good. Nearly new batteries… I mean what else is there?
by the way, we’re not that far apart…I’m on Mississippi coast. Also took car to dealer in Daphne… they were at a loss as well. If I find an answer I am going to share it with them as well.
Check the motor for stuck brushes.
Take the armature wires off and unplug the tach sensor. Remove the 2 bolts holding the back of the motor to the case and pull out the armature assembly.
You can then service the back end of the motor on the bench.
That connection must have 72v for car to run.
After disconnecting, connect to 72v. Not the green from charger. The wire that green was disconnected from.
[quote=Inwo;30443]That connection must have 72v for car to run.
After disconnecting, connect to 72v. Not the green from charger. The wire that green was disconnected from.[/quote]
will check Monday when auto electric place opens where they are trying to find the problem. question I have currently is that if the interlock is defective, if it were bypassed would it not endanger overcharging the batteries. AND, is the interlock a part of the charge, so replacing the entire charger would then seem warranted. Finally, if I have to order another charger, do I pay $400 for one like in there now or $650 for one that is suggested to be so much better?
Bypassing interlock does not affect operation, interlock only prevents drive away.
what or where is the b+ wire???
The + battery wire connection point is the easiest to identify.
Common Dave, talk Mechanic talk.
I’m not sure if this will help or not but my 2008 Gem does pretty much the same thing. Mash the pedal and nothing. The speedometer is showing about 10 mph. If I pull back on my gas pedal just a touch I hear a click from the solenoid and the speedometer goes to zero and the car runs fine. I think my accelerator is out of adjustment or something internal causes this but It works if I pull the pedal back just a bit.Hope this helps…