My employees took my cart out and it died. Master switch went bad replaced master switch still dead went through forum. I have 72 V on the B plus and B minus did a bunch of diagnostics if I jump pin 12 at PWB, everything works as it should I also can connect my common and normally open pin on relay above 72 to 12 V converter. Everything works as it should pin six does not go to ground when key is on reads 12 V all the time.
Ok- First, A few words of caution: You need to be super aware as to what you are jumping to where (in attempts to bypass).
Also how you are measuring for volts when probing power states.
Next- Identify if your have the original factory PWB (open DC Converter board), or the Updated wiring with new Surepower DC Converter associated with the recall.
The key loop changes character after the update.
Totally guessing
From what I can tell, It sounds like you are dealing with old version of the dc/PWB board. It’s no big secret that they have issues. Especially after 22 years of rattling around on 1 in of suspension travel, components tend to rattle loose off circuit boards.
But then you go into this:
I also can connect my common and normally open pin on relay above 72 to 12 V converter.
Which hints that you might have the wiring update.
Also- to receive more accurate help, It is best to include a clear description of what you are probing, and/or what connector your are working with.
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If you want to simply cut to the chase, What happens when you jump the key switch?
Hi thanks for the help. I believe I have the updated converter. Mine is black and it appears to have a pigtail connecting to the 12 pin. Attached are pictures. Also I probed both side of key and the key is working get 13v on one side and 0 on the other and 13 on both when key is on
Ok- Knowing this, we can proceed down the correct path.
Q- When you KeyON, do your accessories(headlights, wipers, horn) work?
It’s not letting me upload but the model of converter is 71301 and I’m almost positive it’s updated by looking at connections. I’m usually going from body ground to pin for power reading
I’m jumping 72v to pin 12 everything lights up and works
Do 12v accessories work when you KeyON?
No they do not also when key on and I remove break alarm stays on while in road mode if I turn to turf mode alarm goes off when I jump pin 12 then alarm goes off
No accessories work with key on.
Q- Is your car plugged in and charging?
Yes?- Unplug charger and try Key again.
No? Then proceed.
Over on the right side of the dash, locate the two control relays associated with the key loop.
One will be a square with a single screw running right through the middle. It is a Delay Off timer and controls your 12v Accessories.
The other is a really odd looking lump that I think comes from the Air conditioning world.
Both relays are visible in this pic, but depending on who did your install, they float all over the place. (wherever convenient).
Each relay will have several wires going to it but both will have two in common.
Black wire is -12v ground and if followed, will go to ChassGnd.
Green wire is +12v switched from the key.
Follow it from the relays and it should go to the charger. (assuming you have stock Zivan charger) This is the interlock stop in the Key Loop.
Check/Verify that this Green wire has +12v when KeyON.
No? There should be another wire going into the charger. Most likely a Red/White. This should be going straight to the Key Switch. Hopefully you see +12v on this wire?
Yes i will probe in the morning and report back
Do you know what charger is in this car?
Schotts pn 133316-01
I have a red /black wire that has 12v when key on no power on green wire when key on
Also when I jump the green wire to 12v cart moves like it should I’m not getting lights no 12v on pin 2
I jumped 12v on plug not attached to charger cart runs and drives. I tested all pins on 12 pin pwb. Pin 6 has 12v rear of pins have no power to chassis ground. If I jump pin 2 12v then I have lights. Figure pwb is not sending 12v out on all the pins that need it? Also do you have wiring diagram of this updated pwb
Red/Bk? Hmmm. Possibly this was changed along the history?
No Red/Grn?
Both of these wires are going into the bottom of the Schott?
!2v going in and not coming out (charger not active) sounds like something has happened to the Interlock relay.
The KeyON power is supposed to pass through when charger unplugged, and does NOT pass when charger is active. This keep you from driving away when the cord is plugged in.
Cut both of those wires off the bottom of the charger and connect them together. This will bypass the charger interlock and allow the car to run. You then need to keep track of the power cord yourself.
Mark these wires so you can easily locate them later. When you decide to upgrade the charger later, you might choose to reconnect the interlock feature.
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If accessories are not coming on, then check the timer function. Sometimes it is just a dirty connection on the push-on spade connectors.
Verify that KeyON is found on Grn wire, and Bk is on a good clean ChassisGnd.
Org should be +12v constant
If relay active, +12v should come out on Blu wire and activate the switched outputs on the DC Converter (P7, P8) which feed the fuse block.
note: the printed diagram on the timer is very misleading/wrong. It is actually wired like this:
Q- You keep referring to PWB. Do you have something that looks like this?
It is a green board with caps, coils, resistors, and the 1x16 connector plugs straight onto it.
I guess I’m calling the 72v to 12v converter a pwb. I no not have that I have a black converter
OK, that is good. The PWB should be long gone.
(It also explains why you keep referring to the 12p connector.)
That connector is tough to test without actually pinning through the insulated wires.
Pins 1 & 12 are 72v input
Pins 2 & 11 are not used.
Pins 4, 5, 6 are -12v output and connected to ChassGnd.
Pins 9 &10 are +12v continuous.
Pins 7 & 8 are +12v Switched (when Pin 3 sees 12v on it)