Just started working for a Polaris dealer and one of the items that I am tasked with is correcting an 01 GEM. It’s a 4 seat model. Had a couple batteries that were bad. Customer didn’t want to replace all 6, and the others were perfect. Replaced the two. The machine did not run/work when I hired on a couple weeks ago, and it still does not run. When I turn the master switch on, the dash lights up with a “0949”, then “0000”, then goes out. Turning the key on does nothing, nothing works, it won’t pull, no click from the contactor. Batt voltage 77.2v measured at the controller. When the switch is placed from turf to road, and parking brake is off, there is a constant beep. Pull brake handle up, beep stops. Based on searching, I have found that the 72v to 12v dc converter is original (open board design). Fuses test good with DVOM.
You guys got any ideas that might help me figure this out?
That type of DC-DC converter board was recalled because it started more than a few fires. If it’s still installed, then it’s likely the other recalls weren’t performed either. There were 3 or 4 IIRC. DC-DC, brake switch, Zivan NG1 charger (not sure if this was actually a government recall), and I forget what / if the other was.
All of the recalls are still open. Run the VIN through NTSB’s database, then go talk to your service manager about how to get them done. Then see how it behaves, it could all be the old DC-DC acting up.
The 0949 is the odometer reading. 949 miles. when it hits 10,000 miles, the second set of digits will read 0001. and so on. Yes, bass-ackwards…
BTW - if that 01 has the bare aluminum Schott brand charger, it can only run flooded lead acid batteries. The black Zivan NG1 that followed might have some additional settings depending on when it was made. It too was recalled for upgrade - might have to contact Electric Conversions in Sacramento CA directly for that one though. They put a “Microcode Updated” sticker on the front of it after it was performed. It was charger profiles and an internal doo-dad or two.
Is the car still plugged in and charging? Is the charger interlock active?
Which points are you are measuring on the controller? (I bet you manually pushed in the contactor a bit ago).
Wild guess at this point - but I’d have a look at that key switch. Pull off the back of the pod cover and find the little plug on the key switch wires. Jump those two wires in the harness. Does it do anything different?
Clue- with key on and in road mode it beeps with the brake off, and beep stops when brake pulled up. Otherwise key does nothing. I have no idea why it does not beep in turf mode. (or is it in neutral?) Turf mode may be another click down?
The interlock on 99-04 prevents anything from coming on, if you are plugged in to charge and it’s hooked up properly you can’t even get the BDI to come on, even for a split second.
You might be on to something with the key switch. The press on connectors sometimes do get loose on the back of the switches
The charger is on board, it is unplugged (not charging). Key switch did have a wire off of it, I pushed it back on. There are 3 terminals on the switch but only two wires. Using DVOM I found the two that make contact while turning the key and those are the two that I used to connect the wires to.
no I did not manually push the contactor.
F-N-R switch has no bearing on the beep in road mode.
I had almost the exact same issue with a 2002 that I was installing Volt batteries in. Turned out it was the spade connector to B- off the DC-to-DC converter was loose and not plugged in all the way. So a grounding issue.
Figured it out by measuring the voltage at P2 on the controller plug and working my way backward. This car happened to have the recall done and I also had a spare converter. Swapping the converter didn’t fix it so I starting chasing down all the wires. I eventually figured out that the converter was getting 72v but wasn’t sending power to the key switch. Confirmed the converter was good with the swap so it had to be a wiring issue.
PS… that recall should still be covered… assuming it wasn’t claimed and never installed which seems to be an issue. I would swap the DC-DC converter regardless. If it hasn’t failed, it’s probably going to.
Ok. Loose wire found at key switch and reattached.
Anything new happening? What is your status?
You said you were reading 77.2v at the controller. What were you probing?
Most people go straight for the big fat B+ and B-. If that is your case, I find it odd that there is power there without the contactor pulled in.
(Thinking out loud. This is the second time this week someone has claimed this. Maybe there is a pull up resistor going around the main contactor to slowly charge up the caps so the contacts don’t arc?)
No nothing new after reattaching switch wires. It’s possible that the previous tech knocked it off during diagnosis. Or maybe I did while reinstalling the switch as when income in, the switch was in place, just not screwed down.
Time to start probing wires to see what you have for power and where.
Being at the dealer, I assume you have access to wiring diagram and service manuals?
Did you verify the status of your DC/DC converter?
We are all happy to help, anyone, anywhere -
But doesn’t’ Polaris have in-house knowledge? LOL Training programs, manuals…troubleshooting documents?
Kinda funny that a the company that makes them has their service members reaching out to the Internet for help.
The DC/DC should have come up in the computer as a recall item?
Hope we can assist and get you up and running.
I’m at a polaris dealer. They stopped selling GEM years ago, however this customer wouldn’t take it anywhere else–so I’m stuck with it.
I’d try to pull the serial up but I can’t find a serial number. Maybe that’s one reason the recalls haven’t been done? And with that, no way to get a service manual or wiring diagrm until the serial number can be found.
Most of what I have seen says the serial should be at the bottom of the windshield frame, on this one it’s either not there or painted over.
Im not sure where to post this at but someone please help me …Im looking at a 2004 eL that this guy bought and put new interstate batteries in it , bought a new charger for it and now it wont go over regular golf cart speed and in just a few minutes it will slow to a crawl , he is asking $2600.00 complete (with problem) not sure what to do or check …Thanks for any advice …Stevie
thank you I can certainly make use of the diagram.
I got in touch with the customer and got a vin from him. Found 4 recalls, one is now done (inspection on steering). the others will get done; with one being for the 72v to 12v dc converter. The converter IS bad, no 12v from red wire, and found some burn marks on the backside of the board. New one on the way. HOPEFULLY, this solves the problem, but in the meantime I need to verify the wiring per diagram. Also found out from the VIN that it’s a 2000 model not a 2001, if that matters any.
Scorch marks on the back of the dc-dc conveter, customer is lucky his cart didn’t burn to the ground. Which has happened few times before. No Li.
The 1999-2004 are all basically the same. Some minor component differences, but that’s about it.
@AssyRequired your deduction is correct about the tri-color LED on the pod, located above the BDI, not only does it indicate charging status, it severs as a visual that the interlock is should be engaged. I’m no expert on the early models, I just happened to purchase a beat up 02 for cheap and put some money into it. Got a lot of good help here from the usual suspects and learned a lot, would do it again in a heart beat, but would have moved on to a newer one sooner. At this point, my red nose CaUck is just good money after bad.
Thank you for always stepping up to the plate to help people out, especially the new guys.
